Buying new rotors and pads

whitederic

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Alot of great feedback. I ordered r1 rotors for the front and will probably go with the honda pads. Not to sure with what rotors will go with in the rear.

Did some further inspection of the pads on it now, the rear drivers side inner pad is wearing out faster then all the rest. What could be the cause of this?
 

xci.ed6

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sticky sliders &/or piston

gotta take it apart, replace whats broken/rusty.
 

DizzyP

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Organic pads are prob the cheapest but they don't last long, maybe 5-6k miles and brake dust all day long. I normally run Duralast Gold or BrakeBest - Premium Ceramic. Both are very quiet, clean and have low wear indicators. They will wear down your rotors more quickly but you will be able to turn them several times before replacing them. Duralast rotors or Bosch QuietCast both work out well. Last long.

Pro Tip:
Have another car available through the entire process in case you need to make a run to the auto store or to grab munchies.

Use clean paper towels to remove brake fluid from the reservoir. So I got her enough liquid to make it to the low indicator line. If you don't do that while you're doing your brake job then your reservoir will leak out fluid since you're pressing in the pistons for the brake calipers.

The two screws that hold your rotor to the car are not needed. They are just put in there to help the factory assemble the car. This was confirmed by the mechanics at the dealership. If you strip out the screw then put some electrical tape or packing tape over the screw (adhesive side on screw) then try again. If that doesn't work I suggest getting these

SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2oNqvb1TQ2EXR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2oNqvb1TQ2EXR

I got this kit because I stripped out my screws and the tape strategy didn't work out for me.

I recommend just buying the brake rotors when dropping off your old rotors to get resurfaced that way if you get a call and they tell you they cant resurface the rotors you already have new rotors to put in a don't have to make an extra trip to the store to get rotors. If they call you to tell you that they were able to resurface rotors then you can just go ahead and return the brand-new rotors unused.

Also you can get som Disc Brake Quiet to help remove brake squeaks on new pads. The Duralast Golds have adhesive on the shims so they don't need it.

The rears can be a tough due to hand brake assembly. Auto Zone loans out the specially tool kit to push in the piston so you can fit the new calipers.., They just require a deposit, you can loan then for up to 90 days, way better than Orielly which is 24 hours.

After you do your brake job and get your car back together then turn it on leave the hand on and pump the brakes six times to help a bleed out the system if you don't and you just start driving your brakes won't work until you pump them several times.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.


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RedRyder

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^Good info, repped. Except the pistons on the rear calipers turn in and out, so you just put something flat like a prybar or clip removal tool in the slot (better not to use a sharp-edged tool) and turn it to compress. :)
 

xci.ed6

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I use pliers sometimes

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whitederic

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Yall are awesome!! I did the fronts with no problems. If I would have known about the rotor screws I wouldn't have been so nice to them.

Didn't realize the rear calipers spun in and out!! That would have saved me some choice words when I get them done.
 

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