What'd you do to your accord today?

hondachik

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Ugh, I hate bi-est mechanics who tell people garbage. Synthetic is FINE. Your bearings arent made of LEAD. They are a high quality material that will almost never break down unless you run out of oil or your engine is beat on like a race car, or you never change the oil.

People say this because they think their so smart about bearing life.

The ONLY different between synthetic OIL and Mineroil oil is:

1. Synthetic tends to flow a lot better than mineral oil when cold, 90% of engine wear occures at start up.

2. Viscosity changes occure when oil is heated up, mineral oil holds its viscosity fine during normal conditions. However, during extream heat, or cold, synthetic oil maintains its viscosity way better than mineral oil.

3. Synthetic oil does not break down the same as mineral oil

4. People would rather stick with the old adage "every 3,000 miles". Well, I'd rather run a better performing oil and change mine every 6,000 miles.

5. Synthetic oil has more cleaning agents. But mineral oil has them too.


Some mechanics think if an engine has always seen mineral oil, that the bearing clearences will be too wide for synthetic. This is not true, as I said before. Synthetic oil holds its viscosity BETTER during extream heat or cold than mineral oil.

Some mechanics think sytnthetic causes oil leaks, NOT TRUE. Its simply exposes problems that ALREADY exists.


If your leaking oil at 146k. Its probably because you just need to do some routine maintanance. Fix your leaks, and I would continue just to change your oil in regular intervals, whether you use synthetic or mineral oil.

Gotcha. That was my first time doing synthetic, and I guess it just exposed my leak even more. They already know which seal the leak it coming from, Its just the labor that is going to kill me I hear. I may just wait another month or two (if it holds up) and get the seal, and timing belt service done @ the same time. I have a belt squealing & my A/C just fully went out so I'm just about ready to torch this car. It's been going downhill since June.



So...what I'm going to do today is: Put my 6GA decals on, gripe, threaten to sell it, gripe some more, then decide I may as well keep it.
 

HondaLuver83

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Gotcha. That was my first time doing synthetic, and I guess it just exposed my leak even more. They already know which seal the leak it coming from, Its just the labor that is going to kill me I hear. I may just wait another month or two (if it holds up) and get the seal, and timing belt service done @ the same time. I have a belt squealing & my A/C just fully went out so I'm just about ready to torch this car. It's been going downhill since June.



So...what I'm going to do today is: Put my 6GA decals on, gripe, threaten to sell it, gripe some more, then decide I may as well keep it.

What seal are you leaking from? Crank, Cam? are you sure its not something easy, like a distributor seal or valve cover.
 

imaricer:)

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Converted my crappy Apc cai kit to a short ram, got rid of the rice black hose...

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Put an extention on the intake, it was too short, it still is. gotta wait to get a new piece....

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ryan s

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next up for you (well, sooner rather than later) should be running the power wire properly so it doesn't get cut and possibly start a fire and get a better battery tie down.
 

hondachik

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What seal are you leaking from? Crank, Cam? are you sure its not something easy, like a distributor seal or valve cover.

valve cover leaking oil too. i can't remember if its the crank or cam seal. I just know it started with a "C". I know if you're looking towards the car head on, it's on the right side towards the front.
 

imaricer:)

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next up for you (well, sooner rather than later) should be running the power wire properly so it doesn't get cut and possibly start a fire and get a better battery tie down.

Batt tie down works fine, but is temp sinse my OEM dry rotted and cracked last time a swapped batts... amp power cable is fine ive had it like that at least a year now...

Im good bro, i consider evry outcome or possabilty when it comes to my car...

Appreciate u watchin my back tho, and any future advice, thats why i joined this great forum :beer:
 

Drift

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I pulled my motor on saturday morning.

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Need to replace a couple syncros and rings inside the tranny. . .

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I lost reverse which is what prompted this whole venture. It's easier for me to pull the whole motor than just the tranny. The whole process took a little under 2 hours at a very, very slow pace.
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I'm also replacing the clutch and swapping in my F23a5 engine back in for emissions this month.
 
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DarkSideAccord

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i hate u for being able to do that nick lol.. u swap out motors as often as doing oil changes lol
 

ryan s

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Batt tie down works fine, but is temp sinse my OEM dry rotted and cracked last time a swapped batts... amp power cable is fine ive had it like that at least a year now...

Im good bro, i consider evry outcome or possabilty when it comes to my car...

Appreciate u watchin my back tho, and any future advice, thats why i joined this great forum :beer:
youre passing up an unused grommet in the firewall (i can see it in both pics) for the ghettoest way of running a wire. and the wire isn't secured to anything but the battery and the fender area. i'll take the risk of sounding like a dick, but that is not "considering every outcome." wire + bare metal = :huh:

since i've been looking at older cars (pre-1990) recently, i look at the battery first to see how good the owner really is in regards to attention to detail. people can hide bad stuff with carpet and panels and heat shields and fender flares, etc, but they can't hide the battery. and ive seen some scary stuff around here, too.
 
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