Bad Idle, what plug wires should I get.

[runves3]

Just changed plugs, still have a bad idle. Check engine light came on, it went off after plugs replaced, but still having problem. Going to get new wires, but looking for suggestions on which ones to buy. I am no mechanic so right now I am ruling out the stuff that is easy to replace. '99 V6 Accord LX.

Also could a cold air intake affect the engine? I put it on about 6 mos. ago.

 

[Valet]

Have you scanned the code?

 

[LeBirdNest]

Did you space the plugs properly? Do you have a bad distributor?

 

[619rcr]

Just changed plugs, still have a bad idle. Check engine light came on, it went off after plugs replaced, but still having problem. Going to get new wires, but looking for suggestions on which ones to buy. I am no mechanic so right now I am ruling out the stuff that is easy to replace. '99 V6 Accord LX.

Also could a cold air intake affect the engine? I put it on about 6 mos. ago.

MSD, Accel. Pretty much any direct fit that are not autozone or CSK crap brands. Cap & Rotor should be done at same time. I think Racked out means, did you gap the plugs correctly? If they are platinum or iridium they are pre-set.

Regarding the cold air, as long as it hasn't sucked in water, you should be fine.

What exactly is the car doing? What do you mean bad idle. Erratic? Is it surging (Rising & dropping in rpm?) Stumbling (barely running)? What rpm is it approx idling at? Does it start out good then get worse? Be specific

 

[runves3]

Just rough idle...it is not all the time (but all day). reg stays at about 1500 then dips and almost dies. Cap & Rotor are things I know nothing about. I dont want a car that does not run after I mess with it!

The plugs were pre-gapped. I have not had any water in the intake. I will try wires first. As like most of us I need to save money, but dont want to make it worse.

 

[619rcr]

Just rough idle...it is not all the time (but all day). reg stays at about 1500 then dips and almost dies. Cap & Rotor are things I know nothing about. I dont want a car that does not run after I mess with it!

The plugs were pre-gapped. I have not had any water in the intake. I will try wires first. As like most of us I need to save money, but dont want to make it worse.

Distributor cap and rotor are very easy and relatively cheap. You are doing wires anyway. Unscrew the 3 hex head bolts that hold the cap to the distributor. Look underneath the cap. If its all coroded or the contacts are very small from extended use. It should be changed. The rotor is also a wear item and has one hex bolt that holds it to the distributor shaft. If you have a basic metric socket set you can change both.
I would also get a haynes or chilton manual or look at an online honda service manual if you need help. They can really increase your knowledge about your own car.

Other things that can affect your idle are idle air control valve and passage in throttle body, Dirty throttle body, Vacuum leaks around the intake manifold, idle speed adjustment screw, Throttle position sensor. Just something to consider. If you are too scared to get into fixing it, bring it to a good shop.

 

[runves3]

I am assuming that I wont have to worry about any timing or electrical crap with changing those out. Also if any1 can find a video and post a link on how to, that would be AWESOME!

 

[runves3]

z

 

[001Stunna]

Not necessary to double post after yourself. In addition you could use google to get an idea of what it takes to change the cap and rotor too if you wanted to do it ASAP. Stop being lazy!

That aside...watch these two videos and that should be all you should know on how to change the cap and rotor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Vghg8c8Qfk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVv_57uSrUQ

A quick description of it would be...
-remove intake tube for easy access
-mark the plug wires and remove them(or some people leave them on and swap them directly later)
-remove the 3 screws holding the cap (star screwdriver or 8 or 10mm socket)
-pull off the cap and old gasket
-look at the rotor and see if you can access the screw holding it on. if not crank the engine very very little to get it to turn.
-once you have a view of the screw holding the rotor remove it(and do not loose it or its washer; be careful not to strip it)

-Install the new rotor and insert/tighten screw and washer. Do not go hulk crazy on it. The rotor is notched so it can only install one way.
-Remove old gasket and install new one
-Install new cap making sure the gasket stays in place and doesn't get kinked.
-Hand tighten the 3 screws holding the cap as if you use a socket/wrench you could snap them.
-Plug back the plug wires you previously marked and reinstall intake tube.
-Done

 

[619rcr]

I am assuming that I wont have to worry about any timing or electrical crap with changing those out. Also if any1 can find a video and post a link on how to, that would be AWESOME!

There is no electrical or timing adjustment. The F23 has a fixed distributor.