Glad to see you still on here! It's crazy how fast the years go by. I still have so many plans for my CG but the urgency to get around it it has died down.
I got a 3G Type S as my daily and as much as I love that car, the headaches it's giving me are so much more trouble than my Accord ever was.
Glad to see you back homie! Sedans ftw, the nice thing about these cars is that a few mods go a long way in making them look good and parts have gotten pretty cheap. Did you cop a 5 spd?
You figured out how to program the cluster? How diffcult was it?
That underbody is cleaaaan....that reminds me, I need to go get the TLS undercoated. How pricey was the dry ice blasting?
Stick with the J swap. If you're going manual, J32/J35 swap is the best move. Having done the J32a2 swap myself, if you're going NA, do a J35. If you're going for boost stick with a J32.
Googling will get you far, especially when this forum is mostly dead now.
https://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/threads/h22-swap.27142/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/6th-gen-h22-swap-info-473019/
At this point in time, you're better off just swapping the motor with the trans. Hard to find a full CLS to swap over, but plenty of J32a2s that can mate to a 7G Accord 6mt. You'll need a standalone ecu since it's impossible to find a RichieV6 module to make the stock harness work.
This thread...
Lot of custom work needs to be done to complete a K swap on these cars. Mounts, wiring, fab work etc. I know of only one that's been done to a 6thgen. You're better off swapping in the other F23 for 300
Seems like it could be the powersteering system. Looks like #4 in the diagram? Part no. is 53640-S87-A01 Body Valve but it's discontinued.
If it's not leaking a alot, I wouldn't worry about it.
You have to swap the cluster. When it was imported the previous owner probably had to buy a brand new cluster from the dealer and they programmed in the KM to mile conversion on the LCD. Cost effective way to do it now would be buy a used cluster with the km closest to what you have now and swap...
Wheels will spin even in neutral at idle, that's normal. Grab the wheel and shake it up-down and right-left to see if there's any play. If you dont hearing the clunking sound while it's driving, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe a wheel bearing is on its way out?
Clicking sound is most likely...
List it for 2500 obo. I'm sure someone out there would pay that amount. If you list it for 1000, you'll have nutters offering you 250 for the car on Marketplace.