Ground Control coilover sleeves - discussion

I know I keep thinking that, it may be harsher than I want, but I feel like it would be safe...and better safe than sorry. Maybe the dampening of the Yellows could help, not sure.

The vendor told me these are the stock spring rates for the GC's: Front: 440, Rear: 300

I think that makes sense according to the link I posted on the previous page.

RedRyder said:

I found a place I can order GC's with custom rates for $388 shipped.

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what place did you find? is it cheaper to get the standard rates? i've been looking to get some sleeves.

^I've found typically you don't get charged more for custom rates, just means a longer lead time.

20-CG5-01 said:

The roads i take to work everyday isn't bad, but when it does it bounces a little. You'll be fine with 800.250.XXX if you dont want to go lower than 24". Your tire won't hit your fender walls at all. Im at 23.25" all around atm and want to go atleast another .5" in the front. My rears can, but not my fronts because they are at the lowest setting. If you are kinda weary of 8kg in front get 10kg front and 8kg rears.

My spring reads...
800.250.440 front (8kg)
800.250.300 rears (6kg)

Default rates are 8kg/6kg. If I had a chance to buy it again it would be...

700.250.550 front (approx 11.4-12kg)
800.250.440 rears (8kg)

You should stay with 8" springs if don't want to go lower than 23.5" in the front.

Even with default rates my control arm has never hit my anything even with big unexpected dips. But remember, you also do have a bigger motor than i do in the front so i would recommend 10kg fronts for your satisfaction. Plus even if the rates are a little to stiff, you can always adjust your Koni back to a softer setting.

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99accord boi said:

whether or not u rub on hard dips depends on ur spring rate AND the dampening setting on ur koni because dampening plays a bigger role then spring rate wen it comes to hitting dips stiffer springs help with initial squat wen making turns
i know this because i went from 10kg to 15kg swift springs on my type 2's and i still hit control arms everywhere i used to just not as hard as i used to

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These two posts have me thinking 10k/8k would be okay.

Need more input...

To be honest Chris, 12/8 was perfect for me even with swift springs in the front and slammed.

If 12kg is a little to stiff im sure 10/8 will be perfect.

I'm in a very similar situation. I need to raise my car up for shipping purposes but want to lower it a little more than it sits now once it's delivered, so I'm leaning towards throwing some GC sleeves on my existing struts.

I'm also running Sportline springs but with Illuminas and love the ride and degree of adjustable dampening. I don't want to give up the ride to harshness with sleeves and I'm looking for the right custom spring rate for comparible comfort with performance.

There's some good input here, but I want to have the warm and fuzzies before I order something.

The springs compression will depend a lot on the force it faces and also if its progressive or linear. You mentioned you want to have about 1/2" from tire to fender edge. That would be 12.7mm. Looking at the kg/mm rating on springs we know that for each X Kg the spring will compress 1mm. So then we can look at the below mentioned with a simple equation in mind assuming a linear spring...

X spring rate * 12.7mm(available travel)=Total force it'll take to cause such travel in kg and pounds (this does not take into account any extra force required which is put on by the dampening level on the shock)

Assuming a 8k front spring, you'd need a 101.6kg/223.99pound force for you to rub on your fender.
Assuming a 10k front spring, you'd need a 127kg/279.98pound force for you to rub on your fender.
Assuming a 12k front spring, you'd need a 152.4kg/335.98pound force for you to rub on your fender.
Assuming a 14k front spring, you'd need a 177.8kg/391.98pound force for you to rub on your fender.
Assuming a 16k front spring, you'd need a 203.2kg/447.97pound force for you to rub on your fender.
Assuming a 18k front spring, you'd need a 228.6kg/503.97pound force for you to rub on your fender.

The problem here is you'd need to derive a much longer and pretty hefty equation, for even which you'd need to know data such as pothole depth(which can vary by a lot). So let's forget that and just look at the forces of impact needed. My choice would most likely be 10F/8R and then play with the shocks dampening if needed stiffer/softer if you're sure and set on the height choice. If you're ever planning on going to less gap though i'd get the 12/10 and once again play with the dampening.

RedRyder said:

Bump from the dead.

I found a place I can order GC's with custom rates for $388 shipped. I am going to go around 3/4" lower front & rear to get the look I want with the new wheels, which will leave me with roughly 1/2" fingergap between tire and fender.

What rates should I get so that when I hit a bump or dip in the road, the tire doesn't rub the fender? I know I probably have to go somewhat stiff since there is hardly any clearance. From what I understand GC's default rate is 8k/6k. I was thinking of going with 10k/8k. Or should I go with something stiffer? Sacrificing ride comfort to pull these wheels off, lol. I know FF1's are 12k/6k, and FF2's are 12k/8k, are those super stiff in comparison?

Found this, seems to add up: http://hondaswap.com/reference-materials/spring-rate-conversion-chart-30786/

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Chris, you'll more than likely get your set before me, but I am curious to know how the 10/8 setup is if you decide to go with that.

I think I am pretty set on 12/10 myself.

Alright, going with 10k front and 8k rear. Just emailed the seller verifying the spring rates. 10 kg/mm is about 560 lb/in, and 8kg/mm is about 448 lb/in.

I just don't want to open that box and see the wrong rates. If we are on the same page, I'll be ordering this week. Finally lol.

Just called Eibach. For those who have Sportlines for your V6 (#4.4140), the spring rates are...

Reference
Front: 237-314 lb/in (this works out to roughly 5.6k using highest rate)
Rear: 69-171 lb/in (this works out to roughly 3k using highest rate)

As stated earlier, Sportlines are progressive, so those numbers represent the ranges at which the spring compresses (low/high end). Linear springs, like GC's, compress at the same rate throughout. This is why a linear spring with the same or comparable rate to a progressive spring is firmer.

So now I definitely feel more sure that 560 F and 450 R will work for me when I consider the difference. Not to mention that not only is there an increase in rates, but also spring stiffness due to going from progressive to linear spring structure.

F: 5.6k to 10k, or 314 to 560
R: 3k to 8k, or 171 to 450

Great info, CB, thanks!

Looking forward to your review of the new setup.