RedRyder
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12x1.5 lugs/locks Work, Rays, etc
- Thread starter RedRyder
- Start date
Sleeper Cell
No more CG Squad!!!
I will caution you with buying aluminum lug nuts. I ran Rays extended lugs for years, and every single time I took my wheels off I was so sketched out that they'd be stripped or something. I switched to steel lugs and I feel much more confident.
I'd sell you my old Rays for dirt cheap but they look like **** and I'm missing a few lol.
I'd sell you my old Rays for dirt cheap but they look like **** and I'm missing a few lol.
Darianjr1
Well-Known Member
I second this I thought a mechanic knew what he was doing and stripped 2 of mines and then after that I tried to take them off and had to break off the studs smh. And I went from 20 to 16 and got them in blue good for any 4 lug lol and the thread got messed up on them too. IMO not worth it
Hey red, finally gonna get a move on with your wheels eh? 
imo get new lugs, when you buy second hand ones you're probably not gonna find any in good condition; and for the ones that are the price you're paying for 2nd hand its just not worth it. Brand new work lugs over here cost 180, not sure over there, but thats something to think about...
imo get new lugs, when you buy second hand ones you're probably not gonna find any in good condition; and for the ones that are the price you're paying for 2nd hand its just not worth it. Brand new work lugs over here cost 180, not sure over there, but thats something to think about...
Sleeper Cell
No more CG Squad!!!
Elite1JDM
Well-Known Member
I have some rays black extended lugs.
4 locks with key.and 14 lugs !
Not complete. Unless 4 lug
4 locks with key.and 14 lugs !
Not complete. Unless 4 lug
Elite1JDM
Well-Known Member
Sell these things cheap to you bro..
Just gonna have to find a few, up to you
just collecting dust
Just gonna have to find a few, up to you
just collecting dust
RedRyder
Save the manuals
You were concerned they would become stripped? Or they did become stripped? Are OEM lugs steel? Educate me on the difference, if you don't mind.
Was the mechanic using an impact gun? Work says not to use impact guns on their rs lugs, for example. I always use only a breaker bar and never torque above 80 lbs.
Hey red, finally gonna get a move on with your wheels eh?
imo get new lugs, when you buy second hand ones you're probably not gonna find any in good condition; and for the ones that are the price you're paying for 2nd hand its just not worth it. Brand new work lugs over here cost 180, not sure over there, but thats something to think about...
Wheels will get sent off to WheelFlip in the fall I think, current funds are being used for some body stuff, suspension and brakes.
And yeah I'll only buy used if I find a good set for a decent price.
Dude I have NO doubt that those are quality, they look like top of the line. Love the shape. I just feel like a lugnut's job is pretty simple, and since I don't track the car or anything, there should be a reasonably priced, dependable solution. I was hoping to not spend over $150, or at least under $200, lol.
I know I don't want extended, and I want them to be closed end. I will be switching between two wheel setups, but they both utilize the OEM studs.
Thanks for the offer man, but I am looking for non-extended, closed lugs.
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RedRyder
Save the manuals
Guy on V6P responded in my thread. Are these less than reputable?
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/3210827605.html
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/3210827605.html
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Sleeper Cell
No more CG Squad!!!
Most inexpensive lug nut options are from forged aluminum that is anodized a pretty color. While they are VERY light weight, they just feel very fragile and the anodized finish will fade over time. Pretty much you can bet that the time they'll look the best is when they're still in the packaging. Your studs and the lugs will expand at different rates from heat, and I've heard of people's aluminum lugs coming loose at the track. For everyday driving they shouldn't get that hot though.
You have to basically wait until they are cool to the touch to untorque them, and even then it's a little sketchy in my opinion. OEM lug nuts are steel. The two I posted above are steel, and have a lot more heft behind the lug. You don't have to spend that much, I was just posting up some of the nicer ones available in steel lol. I would HIGHLY recommend going with a steel lug nut though over an aluminum one. If you just want something clean and simple, I would suggest looking at some Gorilla lug nuts or something along those lines. Very inexpensive, steel, and simple looking.
Moral of the story is that the aluminum lugs on the market are pretty soft, and I prefer steel.
You have to basically wait until they are cool to the touch to untorque them, and even then it's a little sketchy in my opinion. OEM lug nuts are steel. The two I posted above are steel, and have a lot more heft behind the lug. You don't have to spend that much, I was just posting up some of the nicer ones available in steel lol. I would HIGHLY recommend going with a steel lug nut though over an aluminum one. If you just want something clean and simple, I would suggest looking at some Gorilla lug nuts or something along those lines. Very inexpensive, steel, and simple looking.
Moral of the story is that the aluminum lugs on the market are pretty soft, and I prefer steel.
