Halabeaster54
Well-Known Member
Which one should I use? 30-1911 or 30-1910? And is anyone selling a unit used?
Aem f/ic
- Thread starter Halabeaster54
- Start date
30-1910 and the 30-2986C extension harness, unless you plan to hardwire it in. If I am correct, it is because of the HAL engine sensors for the manual, versus the MAG engine sensors for an automatic.
Just in case you ask:
Sorry, I don't know how you hardwire it in.
Just in case you ask:
Sorry, I don't know how you hardwire it in.
Halabeaster54
Well-Known Member
Ok I am running a cl type s auto ecu and harness with richies module. Does that matter for anythin?
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Halabeaster54
Well-Known Member
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
I personally would not recommend installing an AEM FIC unless you are going boost or something. The FIC being a piggy back ECU has inherit limitations. The biggest being that is only has the capability to pull ignition timing. It intercepts the signal from the stock ECU and then given the tables that you configure in the piggy back it performs modifications to stock signals.
Stock ECU calibrations are from the factory fairly conservative. The manufactures are going for reliability not power. That is why you see people gain like 30 hp on k-series motors with k-pro...because the stock Honda tunes are fairly conservative even on those motors. It's not that Honda doesn't know what they are doing....they are just trying to make the motors last as long as possible and when you push power outputs to the limits stuff breaks faster.
That being said the only way you are going to gain power on a stock NA motor is to add ignition timing (getting it closer to the limit of detonation and making some extra power). If you go boost the AEM piggy back is great because you need to pull timing.
The only way around this limitation on the piggy backs is to force an an advanced ignition through the base timing. You can do this by rotating the distributor cap and then pulling timing in the AEM FIC to compensate for the entire map being advanced. This guy goes over it pretty well: http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?topic=27165.0
Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure the V6 accords are coil on plug which means you have no distributor which means you can't easily induce an advanced state throughout the RPM and load range.
Long stotry short....unless you are going boost or high comp pistons or drastically changing the dynamics of the motor, the FIC will not help you.
Stock ECU calibrations are from the factory fairly conservative. The manufactures are going for reliability not power. That is why you see people gain like 30 hp on k-series motors with k-pro...because the stock Honda tunes are fairly conservative even on those motors. It's not that Honda doesn't know what they are doing....they are just trying to make the motors last as long as possible and when you push power outputs to the limits stuff breaks faster.
That being said the only way you are going to gain power on a stock NA motor is to add ignition timing (getting it closer to the limit of detonation and making some extra power). If you go boost the AEM piggy back is great because you need to pull timing.
The only way around this limitation on the piggy backs is to force an an advanced ignition through the base timing. You can do this by rotating the distributor cap and then pulling timing in the AEM FIC to compensate for the entire map being advanced. This guy goes over it pretty well: http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?topic=27165.0
Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure the V6 accords are coil on plug which means you have no distributor which means you can't easily induce an advanced state throughout the RPM and load range.
Long stotry short....unless you are going boost or high comp pistons or drastically changing the dynamics of the motor, the FIC will not help you.
HALABEAST - get the 1310 with your set up
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I agree with you somewhat Akoutmos. Your knowledge is way more than mine.
If he drops in a stock motor, he really won't need the FIC. However, he wants to squeeze out more HP/TQ from the stock motor. So, aside from a stand alone, the FIC is the best piggyback tuning solution.
J&R nextlevelperformance does make a stand-alone for the J-series with the capability of advancing timing for N/A set ups, while at the same time allowing the car to retain ALL cluster features. It just gives full capability of tuning for the motor itself. Only problem is, right now it's only set up for a 04-08 Acura TL and it's $1300.
These J-series do come tuned down from the factory, they run pig rich. All he really needs to do is lean it out to 13.5 on the high end of the RPM. FIC will do that in O2 "skewed" mode and the ECU will not override those settings, which is exactly what happened when they tuned with those crappy VAFC's.
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I agree with you somewhat Akoutmos. Your knowledge is way more than mine.
If he drops in a stock motor, he really won't need the FIC. However, he wants to squeeze out more HP/TQ from the stock motor. So, aside from a stand alone, the FIC is the best piggyback tuning solution.
J&R nextlevelperformance does make a stand-alone for the J-series with the capability of advancing timing for N/A set ups, while at the same time allowing the car to retain ALL cluster features. It just gives full capability of tuning for the motor itself. Only problem is, right now it's only set up for a 04-08 Acura TL and it's $1300.
These J-series do come tuned down from the factory, they run pig rich. All he really needs to do is lean it out to 13.5 on the high end of the RPM. FIC will do that in O2 "skewed" mode and the ECU will not override those settings, which is exactly what happened when they tuned with those crappy VAFC's.
I was under the impression he did not want to go stand alone due to money (straight up cost of the EMS and the 700 or so dollars associated with tuning it at a shop). If he were to go stand alone though i would recommend the AEM series 2 for the j series motors. AEM has been tried and proven. Not to say that nextlevelperformance hasn't....but i've never heard of them. But seeing as the major dynamics of the motor are unchanged this is not a wise investment to go with a programmable ECU.
I do not have personal experience tuning a J-series motor so i can't comment on whether they run rich or not (you would need a wideband on one to gauge exactly how rich it is running stock). But if you did want to lean it out slightly a nice flowing intake and filter would do the job due to the higher availability of air.
I do not have personal experience tuning a J-series motor so i can't comment on whether they run rich or not (you would need a wideband on one to gauge exactly how rich it is running stock). But if you did want to lean it out slightly a nice flowing intake and filter would do the job due to the higher availability of air.
Halabeaster54
Well-Known Member
I don't want to go standalone because of the money. I have a slightly built j35 I want to squeeze the most out off. I'm not sure if I wanna boost or go all motor, so that's why I'm not going crazy on parts yet. I figured I'd just tune it with the best piggyback and in a couple of months when i figure out what im going to do, ill go from there.
The type s ecu resets its self? I believe reading that, I think mikeymike posted that? With a piggyback will I be able to keep my tune? Sorry if I'm asking noob questions; Im not exactly grasping the whole tuning thing yet. I'm used to plugging a diablo in and pressing a button haha. And F/IC is a better buy then the emanage ultimate? For n/a or f/I or both?
The type s ecu resets its self? I believe reading that, I think mikeymike posted that? With a piggyback will I be able to keep my tune? Sorry if I'm asking noob questions; Im not exactly grasping the whole tuning thing yet. I'm used to plugging a diablo in and pressing a button haha. And F/IC is a better buy then the emanage ultimate? For n/a or f/I or both?
