Anyone replaced thier Rack and Pinion?

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, and Tires' started by JDM_Rook, Oct 22, 2017.

  1. JDM_Rook

    JDM_Rook Well-Known Member

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    Finally getting around to replacing a worn rack and pinion steering after procrastinating about 6 months. The directions state that you need to have the steering wheel pointed straight and locked. Problem is, I can only get it to lock in the 9 o'clock and 2:30 positions. It also wants you to remove airbag and wheel to prevent damage to cable reel. Couldn't i just leave it in the 2:30 position and mark the relationship on steering wheel and shaft when i remove it?, to put it back in the exact same spot. Want to make sure i get this right before i proceed any further.
     
  2. Rusty Accord

    Rusty Accord Well-Known Member

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    I haven't done a rack swap on an Accord yet (yes I have a rebuilt rack sitting here), but I think you've got a decent plan. Unplug the battery for at least 10 minutes before you start (shuts off the air bag), find the center of the wheel, and put a ring of masking tape at the top center, then go ahead a lock the steering wheel (or don't), and work on removing the rack. You'll find the lines are a royal PIA to remove (especially if they haven't been changed before) due to the very limited space Honda engineers gave us to work with.
    Once you have the lines off, then it's just a matter of pulling the thru bolt out that connects the steering column to the rack. Once you've gotten that far, knock out the tie rod ends, and unbolt the rack from the cross member. According to the FSM, it goes out the right side.
    I was looking into swapping mine out due to fluid leaks. I thought 1 of those 2 little lines had split open requiring dropping the rack to replace them (or the rack). Turned out it was the pressure line right next to the rubber holding block, and was spraying reward. Replacing the line fixed it for now, but the 2 small diameter lines are the only ones I haven't replaced yet.

    I hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2017
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  3. Robert Troncoso

    Robert Troncoso Well-Known Member

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    I replaced my rack a couple months ago and it was a pain in the butt. I had help from my dad and hes been a technician for over 20 years and it was still kind of tough. We ended up having to lower the subframe down just a bit to get it to slide out and the new one to slide in.

    The thing is, the return line for the rack is leaking though the fitting which means I either have to find the short piece of line that attaches to another part of power steering hose, or I have to bend and make my own.

    It just sucks because you have to use a long extension and a set of crows feet sockets to get those lines off.

    So yeah, to anyone about to do this, make sure you check to see if the lines are leaking at their connection with the rack.
     
  4. Eclipse99fwb

    Eclipse99fwb Well-Known Member

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    As for locking your steering wheel, you dont actually lock it what it means is use a tie down (the one with the hooks on the ends not a ratch type) to hold the wheel. What i do at work i usually wrap it around the driver side mirror and loop it around the steering wheel. This will hold it and allow slight movement which you will need to undo the steering shaft. Using crow feet socket works on the lines but if possible try to use a line wrench to break the nut loose first you dont want to strip the line nuts. Its been awhile since i replace a accord p/s rack so cant give you step by step but take your time and it wont be that bad. Make sure you count the number of turns to remove your outer tie rods (use a piece of chalk or white out and write it somewhere on the fender, dont try to just remember you will forget lol) so you put them back on the same amount of turns. Also i would replace both outer tierods if your not already planning too. This will put your toe close to current readings. The biggest thing is make sure you get a alignment after your done, this will correct your steering wheel if its off centered which 9 out of 10 it will be evening with locking the wheel and get your toe in spec. Good luck let me know if you have any other questions, when i go to work tomorrow i can get step by step directions if need be.

    Edit: you shouldnt have to pull the airbag ive never had to on any rack replacement just becareful what your doing, agree on hooking the battery though. But if it makes you feel better its not hard.

    Lol didnt look at the original post date hope this info might help someone else though.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2019

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