Battery Relocation v2 (undercarriage)

nyknick1015

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^ Your method would not work for people running, or wanting to run a CAI or turbo.

Well thats if you dont want a CAI. If you do, you can also remove the washer fluid and put on that side too. I just like having space... thats all lol and i ditched my CAI after i almost hydrolocked
 

turboputz

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...Getting a little nervous about what could go wrong. I'm not worried about my ability or anything. The parts haven't showed up yet, but that's not a big deal, either. 4ga wire should be fine, right? It's the same gauge as what's already connecting it, but it's going to be much longer now.

On the other hand, the positive wire currently connecting the battery is partially exposed and oxidizing and the negative is a mess of half-exposed unwinding green copper rust, so if it's working fine now as is, I would expect 20' of brand-new Stinger cable to work just as well, at least.

...amirite?

Well if it follows the same principles as speaker cable, the further you have to travel the bigger gauge you want to go with. Over the longer distance you will lose more energy from heat transfer, etc.. You can counteract that by going with something thicker. Of course quality of the cables plays a major role too; the conductivity of the material.

I'm sure it will work fine. The battery only has to start the car. If you are running a lot of stereo equipment off this battery and going to a deep cycle red top optima you may want to rethink your plans and get advice from an installer if you know one.
 

Jin Marui

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I was thinking of swapping the battery (Duralast, I think) with an Optima yellow, or maybe even just adding it. Can multiple batteries be connected in parallel?
 

Jin Marui

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Finally, a day off where I can post from home, and with all of my normal tools handy. Some more useful than others.
Like daylight. And a 5Mpx camera.

I promised pics, and here they are;

A possible route into the trunk.
M3GOI.jpg

Where it leads, under the car...
M3HGA.jpg

A pre-existing wire carrier that I didn't notice until now.
M3I82.jpg

Wire carrier from the front, it's on the driver-side.
http://bayimg.com/PApeKAAba
The battery.
http://bayimg.com/PAPelAAbA
The ground going to the engine block.
M3M2Y.jpg
 
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Jin Marui

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The power distribution block came in as I was updating my SRI thread.
Looks like a toy on the outside, but it's solid and of high-quality materials on the inside.


http://bayimg.com/mApEcaaba for the inside. Image hosts keep crapping out on me. :squintfinger:
 

Wildman

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I think you have good intentions, but (no offense) it sounds like there's a lot you could learn.

if your wire is properly fused, nothing's going to catch on fire. there are literally millions of cars on the road with probably more power running through the cabin than you'd be looking at. if you live in Northlake, IL, I'd even argue that you're increasing your risk by running the wires under the car. They'll be scraping over snow and getting doused with salt every winter.

also, if you're installing a stereo of any significant size (like, say 350-400wrms), that 4 gauge isn't really going to cut it. can I ask why you're interested in a second battery? For sustained power, you'd be better off buying a high output alternator, upgrading grounds, and looking into a cap if you still have issues. an extra battery is really just going to add weight unless you really like to park your car and listen to music when it's not running.

personally I don't even get the point of relocating the battery but if you're bored and want something to mess with more power to you lol.
 

1NonlyAccord

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personally I don't even get the point of relocating the battery .



I relocated mine to help keep the engine bay clutter down,and help with a small wire tuck..So mainly for show? I guess..ha
 

JMillerUA6

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This is the guy that bought the universal SRI. He's relocating the battery so the intake will fit....................
 
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