BIG 3 Upgrade questions

[001Stunna]

please go into detail why? this method is widely accepted as safe. i've had no troubles with it. and so what if the one in 1 million chances something messes up, it ****s up my alternator? time for a new HO alt that is long overdue

hey its your car. you can drive it into the ocean for all I care lolz. if you do not like the advice don't take it. just don't make others follow on your wrong ways at least.

as for your "routing method"...
1-You change/upgrade the current two grounds from the battery to chassis/tranny mount. One short wire, one longer wire running down to the tranny. You do not need to run a wire all around the intake cover to the strut mount. Ground wires should NOT be longer than they need to.

2-Most will add a wire from the engine to chassis as the oem one by the driver engine mount can have rusted bolts at times and be a paint to get off and replaced.

3-Everyone will FUSE the alt to battery wire with an 80AMP fuse which is what the stock alternator sends out. Even Honda fuses the connection but hey you're probably smarter than their techs then by all means do it your way.

 

[gt58]

lol

 

[20-CG5-01]

hey its your car. you can drive it into the ocean for all I care lolz. if you do not like the advice don't take it. just don't make others follow on your wrong ways at least.

as for your "routing method"...
1-You change/upgrade the current two grounds from the battery to chassis/tranny mount. One short wire, one longer wire running down to the tranny. You do not need to run a wire all around the intake cover to the strut mount. Ground wires should NOT be longer than they need to.

2-Most will add a wire from the engine to chassis as the oem one by the driver engine mount can have rusted bolts at times and be a paint to get off and replaced.

3-Everyone will FUSE the alt to battery wire with an 80AMP fuse which is what the stock alternator sends out. Even Honda fuses the connection but hey you're probably smarter than their techs then by all means do it your way.

This...

You dont need to have any fuses from the amp to the power, but as always it is safer.

Why take the risk of something worth $15 and turning it to $100+?

As always, I would never run a (+) to (+) connection with 80a-100a fuse.

 

[ryan s]

man...i wish i could figure out a legal automotive moneymaking scheme as good as "the big 3" so everyone would gladly pay me for little or no benefit to their car.

 

[gt58]

big 3 is monumental when you're running high power. how do you expect to pull 100+ amps from a high output alternator with the stock 8 (10?) gauge wire?

 

[ryan s]

how many people who have done this upgrade are running anything but a stock alternator?

 

[gt58]

think of the big 3 as high flow fuel injectors in a high hp application. you're limited to the amount they can push out, bigger injectors (big 3) lets the potential for power through

 

[20-CG5-01]

man...i wish i could figure out a legal automotive moneymaking scheme as good as "the big 3" so everyone would gladly pay me for little or no benefit to their car.

Should've seen the car I saw 2 weeks ago. This guy wad running a NRG battery terminal on his negative battery with like 8 (8)AWG wires grounding to some point. Sad thing was it was all red wires. Turned out he was pusing 1 12" kicker comp only.

Back on topic, for us (4 cyl) who doesn't want to pay $200 for a high output alternator, upgrading your grounds for less than $30 is better than nothing.

 

[ryan s]

think of the big 3 as high flow fuel injectors in a high hp application. you're limited to the amount they can push out, bigger injectors (big 3) lets the potential for power through

think of high flow injectors on a stock engine.

that's what using 0 gauge with a stock alternator is like. if its upgraded, fine...but only a handful of people reading this need to worry, and they probably already know.

Should've seen the car I saw 2 weeks ago. This guy wad running a NRG battery terminal on his negative battery with like 8 (8)AWG wires grounding to some point. Sad thing was it was all red wires. Turned out he was pusing 1 12" kicker comp only.

Back on topic, for us (4 cyl) who doesn't want to pay $200 for a high output alternator, upgrading your grounds for less than $30 is better than nothing.

then theres those crazy "jdm earthing" kits that were all the rage a dozen years ago

but the whole point of this exercise in futility is you don't need to upgrade your grounds unless they've corroded or are otherwise damaged. and ive done my share of light dimming in my days

 

[gt58]

im saying current draw. if you did the big 3 and did not have a sound system i would probably slap you haha. if im pulling 100+ amps to the back of my car, i would like the most possible amount of power coming from the alt to go to my battery. i guess thats what im trying to argue. after i did my big 3, i could tell a difference. im pushing 1.5k and after it did make a difference. i was dropping to the 11's full tilt, after the big 3 i was never below 12. i guess the proof is in the numbers?