ryan s
they dont think it
ohhhh yeah...forgot about the DRL thing. then yeah...your cable is probably out of adjustment if the parking lights come on. at least its a simple and free fix...
9 times out of 10, its the float on the master cylinder cap. take it off...shake it...put it on differently than you took it off (rotate it).
if your pads and/or rotors are low on life (this goes for anyone)...dont add fluid to low brakes. that makes for a "fun" cleanup when the new brakes go in...
mine's still on after i changed my brakes
9 times out of 10, its the float on the master cylinder cap. take it off...shake it...put it on differently than you took it off (rotate it).
if your pads and/or rotors are low on life (this goes for anyone)...dont add fluid to low brakes. that makes for a "fun" cleanup when the new brakes go in...
Easy....
your pads may be low and drawing more fluid from the break master cylinder to the break lines and calipers to compress against the rotor.
You probably need to add some break fluid, or you have to take the cap off and move the float up and down. Sometimes it gets stuck
probably because half of your solution is incorrect? (about adding fluid)
cant speak for anyone else, though.
where's all the fluid going? i've never added brake fluid to a car unless there was bleeding involved. one should never have to add fluid between hardware changes unless they're doing something to make it boil and therefore evaporate. and at that point, it's time to switch to DOT5 or similar.
likewise, i've NEVER heard of anyone sucking fluid out before/during a brake job unless, once again, a bleed/flush is involved.
what are you doing to have such low fluid in the first place? turned rotors? rotors turned multiple times? master at "low"? never changed your fluid? expanding lines? if ANYONE's fluid level goes so low as to require adding more fluid than just a splash (top up), there's a problem somewhere...