Brake Line leaking

lithiumus

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OK... I did the job but there were definitely issues... I'll post up some pics soon.

- first, getting the plastic cover off can be a challenge. The challenge is that it is holding on to all of the hard lines exactly where (and has caused) all the rust is. All of those spots are very weak and brittle at this point. Any bending of the hard lines beyond 15 degrees or so will crack those rusted spots.

- the next challenge which if I knew before hand, I would have just repaired it... is the rear hard line holder which is the only holder that is bolted down (or up) on the underside. If your car is a 6th gen and winter driven, that bolt is completely rusted and seized. To top it off, the placement is right over the rear suspension beam and you can barely get a wrench on it. You won't be able to get the box end on it. I took a pic of that. I could have grinded down the parts in the way but I realized that even if I could break the bolt loose, I'd unlikely have the clearance to actually remove it. :shakehead:

So at this point I realized that there is no way to replace the entire line in one piece. I've never done a double flare but I've read and now realize from experience, that this is the right way to make a union vs. compression fittings which require no additional tools and much easier to perform.

I went out to Princess auto and picked up one of their double flare tools for $39. I practiced until I mastered the flaring process. It's not hard but you really need to write out a check list / instructions to avoid screwing it up. The 4 tips to help the beginner...

1. Practice first!!! Even if you made a good one the first time, make a few more! If it doesn't work on the car, you'll have to cut it off and you'll be left with less line to work with and it may wreck you job.

2. ALWAYS remember to put the fitting on the line, in the PROPER direction, BEFORE you flare it! I messed this up even after learning my lesson... twice!! :Boo:

3. The instructions tell you how much brake line to leave above the clamp to make the bubble flare. Do not leave that much. Leave about 1mm less than suggested. EVERY attempt resulted in a bent flare! I have pics. If you go 1mm less, every flare will be perfect. I'm going to write to Princess Auto / Power Fist to update their instructions.

4. Finally, if you don't want the brake line to slip, wrench down the 2 wing nuts of the clamp until the 2 pieces are flush. A hairline gap is ok. The line will not slip of you wrench it down enough.

- Since I already had the OEM hard lines, might as well use them. Next I decided where to cut the OEM lines on the car. I decided to cut as far back as I could while leaving as much clean unrusted line as possible. I then cut the OEM lines as far back as possible so I had enough slack just in case I made an error (which I did... twice)

- Removing the brake lines from the proportioning valve is a pain as you can't reach it from below and it's deep in the engine bay enough that makes it hard to work with. I didn't have any flare wrenches but I highly suggest getting some for brake jobs. I used liquid wrench to help loosen the line a bit and was able to get one line off with a normal 10mm wrench... the other one stripped so I had to use a vice wrench to get it off.

- using the OEM fitting actually helped save a lot of time especially under the hood. Since it was already pre-bent, and the difficulty in reaching the proportioning valve, the OEM line was perfectly positioned and I bolted it into the valve easily.

- time to test the lines... I was surprised at how tight the fittings needed to be before they were leak free. Once they are leak free, bleed according to the manual. FL -> FR -> RR -> RL. My brakes are a bit spongy so I might do another round of bleeding just to be sure.

I left the plastic cover off. On my next oil change, I'll scrape off the rust on the fuel lines and vapor lines and spray all the lines with rock guard under tar to protect it for the coming winter. I want the car to last a few more seasons!

Pics to follow!
 

lithiumus

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This is my 10mm wrench on the old line. Removing it from the proportioning valve.

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This is a shot of that bolt holding a strap to the hard line just above the rear suspension beam. I hit it with liquid wrench to no avail. Tried to wedge the box end of the 10mm wrench and it won't fit without grinding...

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The rear right line is done (top) and I just finished the double flare to complete the rear left line and :Boo: doh! Forgot to put the fitting on! Such noob :shakehead:

IMG_3128_zps9bvj3ew0.jpg


Blurry pic of the rear right line union completed. See all the rust on the old line and all the rust on the 2 fuel lines and vapor line?

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Fresh OEM lines connected to the proportioning valve.

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Ill take some pics of the bent bubble flares soon.
 

lithiumus

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The brake lines held up really well and the line wrenches were critical for getting it tight enough!
 

RedRyder

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Great info, repped. So what is the advantage of line wrenches exactly? I see the ends kind of close a little on either side.
 

604ACCORD

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Great info, repped. So what is the advantage of line wrenches exactly? I see the ends kind of close a little on either side.

Line wrenches are almost like a socket they have a small opening to allow you to get it over the line and around the fitting providing maximum contact with out stripping the fitting. A must have when workin with brake lines. But i get away with out em.
 

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