Brakes Vibration
- Thread starter kcollazo86
- Start date
finch13
Well-Known Member
1. Squeak spray is bs, just like belt spray. Its a bandaid, not a fix. You need to tear the brakes apart and lube the slide pins and the back of the pads. Wouldn't hurt to grind down the tabs on the pads so they slide in the caliper easier.
2. To the OP, you've got to be braking hard. You're either braking harder than the rotors can dissipate heat or your letting soft pads sit on hot rotors at a stoplight, leaving sticky deposits the can cause a pulsing/jerky stop at low speeds. Likely you warped the rotors, but you can try getting them turned first. If only worry about the fronts for now to save money, they do most of the braking.
I don't recommend ceramic type pads on stock or auto part store rotors, they simply cannot handle the amount of heat those pads generate. Ive warped 2 sets of cheap rotors using nice pads, even my Hawk HPS pads have warped my OEM rotors.
2. To the OP, you've got to be braking hard. You're either braking harder than the rotors can dissipate heat or your letting soft pads sit on hot rotors at a stoplight, leaving sticky deposits the can cause a pulsing/jerky stop at low speeds. Likely you warped the rotors, but you can try getting them turned first. If only worry about the fronts for now to save money, they do most of the braking.
I don't recommend ceramic type pads on stock or auto part store rotors, they simply cannot handle the amount of heat those pads generate. Ive warped 2 sets of cheap rotors using nice pads, even my Hawk HPS pads have warped my OEM rotors.
DarkSideAccord
nadeshiko fobz ftw..
brandon, how are ceramic pads hotter than metallic-based pads? 
i thought it was the other way round
OP, did u happen to wash ur car or get any water on the rotors after driving it? that could have caused ur rotors to warp as well... btw, why didn't u resurface the rotors when doing the pads?
i thought it was the other way roundOP, did u happen to wash ur car or get any water on the rotors after driving it? that could have caused ur rotors to warp as well... btw, why didn't u resurface the rotors when doing the pads?
finch13
Well-Known Member
brandon, how are ceramic pads hotter than metallic-based pads?
I went from ceramic to semi-metallic and the rotors didn't warp as easily after that. I'm no brake pads expert, that's just my experience. Bottom line, you probably shouldn't be running race pads on stock or cheapo replacement rotors. That's like boosting 15 pounds without touching the internals.
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
branndon so should i still buy the hawk hps pads then cuz i need some new brake pads. i dont do any hard braking since i drive in the city wheres there a stop light or stop sign every god dam block... 
kcollazo86
Well-Known Member
I really don't do any hard stops im mostly on the highway most of the time. As soon as I put those pads I had problem with them. Im not very sure if me leaving them squeek the way they would caused the rotor to warped and get the way they are now.
brandon, how are ceramic pads hotter than metallic-based pads?
OP, did u happen to wash ur car or get any water on the rotors after driving it? that could have caused ur rotors to warp as well... btw, why didn't u resurface the rotors when doing the pads?
Probably, I wash my car constantly. Maybe alittle to much lol so maybe that could be the problem....The reason beging why I didn't resurface the rotor was the rotors are still Basically new there not even 6 months old I didn't think I would have needed to get them resurfaced, me just thinking it was the pads and not my rotors.
nomocars23
Well-Known Member
yeah lamo this has been happening to me for ever and ... i just role on it .... my pads are good so i still stop lol.... and since when do wee need to worry about stoping id just be happy to go fast enough to worry about stoping lol
Fuzz
Well-Known Member
Hey guys. First I would like to say don't bother with re-surfacing the rotor because the cost of turning vs new is the same for Honda.
Shaking under braking can be the rotor being warped or partly glazed over which happens with cheap pads.
I've been doing track events for 2 years with the Accord using cheap jobber rotors and Hawk HP+ pads. I've rarely warped a rotor to the point of shaking. The key is with the bedding process.
You need to properly heat up the brake discs slowly to working temperature and then letting them cool down completely. You can even do it in an oven. After they have cooled you need to use light braking for 400 miles.
IF YOU ARE INSTALLING PERFORMANCE PADS
After that you can install your new aggressive pads and then do the pad bedding per the instructions for the pads.
Shaking under braking can be the rotor being warped or partly glazed over which happens with cheap pads.
I've been doing track events for 2 years with the Accord using cheap jobber rotors and Hawk HP+ pads. I've rarely warped a rotor to the point of shaking. The key is with the bedding process.
You need to properly heat up the brake discs slowly to working temperature and then letting them cool down completely. You can even do it in an oven. After they have cooled you need to use light braking for 400 miles.
IF YOU ARE INSTALLING PERFORMANCE PADS
After that you can install your new aggressive pads and then do the pad bedding per the instructions for the pads.
