Cannot shift, windows and locks out

aterford

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So today i was changing out some of the lightbulbs in my instrument cluster as there were a few that were burnt out. My clock light was out as well so i was swapping it too. Anyways, i get everything out, new bulbs in and reconnected fine. Start car and everything is good. I go to plug in the clock while the neg. battery terminal is still connected (i don't remember if i'd shut the car off or not, sorry). Well, my instrument gauge cluster went out and I couldn't roll up my windows or shift out of park (unless i used the shift lock disengage, in which case i was able to). My radio, AC, and clock all worked still.

So i do a bit of searching here on the forums and couldn't find anything exact but the general consensus was to check fuses first. My #9 "Instrument light" 7.5a fuse was blown, so i swapped it. After swapping this my gauge cluster started working again, windows were able to roll up, and i can shift gears as normal.

Well, once my cluster came back on, my SRS light and check engine light were on (they weren't previously) as well as my parking brake light (it comes on sporadically). Any ideas why these two might be on? I noticed my idle felt a little bit rougher than usual and drove around a parking lot a bit to make sure everything was at least functional but didn't take the car out on any real roads in case something might go wrong. Thoughts?

Edit: Might also be worth adding that my idle was around 7-800rpm. I've only had the car for a couple of days so i'm not sure what the "norm" should be. Thanks!
 

agginline86

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for the brake light, sometimes it comes on when fluids are low
i forget off the top of my head exactly why
but plenty of info on all your woes here on the forum
give it a good search
 

aterford

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I followed the CEL reset as that guide said. Drove around for about 2 miles and it hasn't came back on. I haven't been able to do the SRS reset yet, though. Also, two new things--My gas light is on (though i have about a 3rd of a tank left--gauge shows this and i put in a few gallons just last night) and now the shifter lights all work except for D(4). I can tell that it's shifting into gears as normal but for some reason that one won't light up.
 

aterford

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for the brake light, sometimes it comes on when fluids are low
i forget off the top of my head exactly why
but plenty of info on all your woes here on the forum
give it a good search

Yeah, that's what i've heard too. On my previous car (4th gen maxima) the parking break seized up intermittently (not enough to be a big hinderance) and would cause the light to come on so hopefully it's not that. Maybe a noob question but can you "top off" your brake fluid under the hood or do you have to do that via your brake lines or something? I haven't got a chance to look around much and brakes are one of my weaker points when it comes to cars haha
 

Somebody1

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With the check engine light, with some codes it could take up 500 or 750 miles to throw the CEL, im not sure about the SRS, before you bought it the previous owner they could've reset the diagnostic. Its worth noting that you could short the OBD2 connector to get you the codes, all it takes is a piece of wire or a paperclip. If done correctly you shouldn't damage anything as its a programed feature, but if you dont feel comfortable doing this, just take it to autozone.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpG3Sazz3GA
 

Brad2274

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just check the level of your brake fluid under the hood, top it off with dot 3 or 4 in the resevoir. often if fluids low the light will come on until the car warms up, or will come on going around a corner, easy fix.
 

Somebody1

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Your gas light comes on because your "thermistor" on your fuel tank went bad, the surface could be corroded or damaged. It needs to be cleaned or replaced.


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