F23 rebuild

chmielewskit

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I looked into jdm f23 but Id rather just go threw it myself and know there's a fresh rebuild. And yeah I like to get on the car sometimes so I'll most likely upgrade. I heard that the oil control rings are the main issues in these causing oil to burn.


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Turbo5upra

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Depending on how much you're willing to put into the re-build, you may want to consider a JDM F23A instead with low miles, might be doing that this summer.

I made this choice and wish I rebuilt my motor- I've got it down to a quart every 1k or so- going to try another water/methonal injection session before my next oil change and then maybe a round of auto rx...
 

Jarrett

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Based on the fact that I want him to get race rings so there is no issue with burning oil, ever and you can gun it hard. There is no way the cylinders would wear before the rings would, let alone the cylinders getting out of round. I have never heard that happening on F23's. I'm sure it might if you put the engine under extreme forces/loads, but rings are the weakest point in the F23x motors, the sleeves are thick steel lined lol. To replace the rings, just get the nicer ones, why not.

You're right, a leak down test might not be a bad idea too.

I know people think you're a genius around here, but the way you're responding tells me you don't have any real experience outside of what you think you're seeing. Take any inline engine and check the bores with a bore gauge at three different points at three different heights in the cylinder (9 total). You will find the cylinder out-of-round by a few ten-thousandths or more if it has any significant number of miles. It's just the nature of the direction in which the side-loading pressure of the piston is applied against the cylinder wall.

The cylinder walls are iron, by the way. Not sure how to respond to the "lol".

The bottom line is that the patterning and depth of the crosshatching in the cylinder walls, the weight of oil used and it's ability to cling to the cavities in the cross-hatching, as well as the metallurgic properties of the walls, the rings and the pistons operating in synchronus all play a role in sealing the combustion chamber and preventing leaks.

And are you implying that a car cannot be "gunned" without "racing" piston rings?

Beyond Total Seal, what do you think qualifies a piston ring as a racing ring?




OP, do a compression test on your engine first. Then, put capfull of ATF in the spark plug hole and try it again. See if the results go up.
 

chmielewskit

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I mean it's Forsure has something to do with the rings on top of bad guides. It's getting rebuilt and a few mods put on before spring.


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TURBOG23

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OP, do a compression test on your engine first. Then, put capfull of ATF in the spark plug hole and try it again. See if the results go up.

Can you go more into detail what to do with the ATF? I mean, do you put it in all the cylinders at the same time or one at a time? Im asking because my H22 is burning oil but a compression text came back ok. Sorry to thread jack.
 

Jarrett

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The ATF is used to see if a bad compression test can be aritificially improved. If it can then it would indicate worn rings or cylinder walls. If it has no improvement then the issue is a bent valve or damaged seat.

If you're already getting good compression test results then your oil burning issue is likely in the head.

Also, to rule it out, check your coolant to make sure there's not oil in it. If so, you've likely got a headgasket issue.
 

chmielewskit

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So I got a call from the shop that was re doing my head today and the cam journals are gone so now jm on the search for another head


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