bluiezaccord
Well-Known Member
If you dont feel like reading all this then scroll down to the bottom of this paragraph 
About a week ago I noticed that I have been experiencing low rpm at about 350-500. So a couple of days ago I decided to clean the TB so i went to PEP boys to get some stuff to clean it. Went back to the car and started it. The car was literally about to die from low idle.
Anyways, got home and I took the tb out and started to clean it with throttle body cleaner.
The only sensor I took off was the map sensor. So I continued to clean the tb and took out the butterfly and cleaned that also. It was really dirty.
After everything looked clean, I put everything back the way it should be.
Started the car and the RPM was at 2k the whole time. The car warmed up pretty quick. I didnt know what I did wrong. I also put the car to D and the RPM dropped to about 1200 and stayed there also.
So I left everything and waited the next day to work on it again.
This time I d/c the negative terminal on the battery, took out the tb again and see what was going on.
The IACV was stuck on hard but I managed to take it apart. It was filthy. I played around with the IAC and separated the sensor from its body. I found out that it was magnetic lol. If you remove the sensor from the valve itself, you will see this little piece in between a bearing that can be twisted. At first it was hard to twist because there was so much black deposit in valve. I think that was the reason for the messed up idle. I cleaned the valve and made sure that the piece would spin easily.
I didnt mess with the sensor and just connected it back to the valve. then put it back to the tb. I didnt mess with the tps. After all that, I put the tb back on the car, reconnected the battery, removed the radiator cap and started the engine.
When I started the car, the rpm went to about 1700 stayed there for a couple seconds then dropped down to 1200 and by the time it warmed to to regular temp, the rpm was at about 700-800.
Idle seems more smooth and when I drive I can feel the difference from before. If this is confusing sorry try reading the long story short part.
Long story short:
-idle was really low and felt rough (350-500)
-took tb out, removed map sensor, then took butterfly out and cleaned it
-put it back on car, idle stayed constant at around 2000 even when warmed up to normal temp
-next day, d/c negative terminal, removed tb and took off the iacv.
-iacv was really dirty, removed the sensor from the valve itself and cleaned it
-i made sure that the part where you can spin, spun easily cause it didnt before I cleaned it.
-attached everything back, put the tb back on the car
-reconnected battery, removed the radiator cap
-started car, idle stayed at 1700 for a couple seconds but dropped down to 1200 and by the time it reached normal temp, the rpm was at around 700-800.
-closed the radiator cap test drove.
conclusion:
the car seems to idle a lot better, more smooth and when im driving; honestly, I can feel the difference. It does feel more smooth. It beats the feeling of being paranoid that your car might die.
I just wanted to share with you guys just incase you ever encounter this problem. You might not need to get a new IACV or anything. I was so close to buying it. Luckily I decided to take a look at everything again.
Oh and if you have a CL light for the IACV, try to take it out from the tb and clean it. make sure you separate its sensor from the valve itself to clean it.
I hope this helps.
About a week ago I noticed that I have been experiencing low rpm at about 350-500. So a couple of days ago I decided to clean the TB so i went to PEP boys to get some stuff to clean it. Went back to the car and started it. The car was literally about to die from low idle.
Anyways, got home and I took the tb out and started to clean it with throttle body cleaner.
The only sensor I took off was the map sensor. So I continued to clean the tb and took out the butterfly and cleaned that also. It was really dirty.
After everything looked clean, I put everything back the way it should be.
Started the car and the RPM was at 2k the whole time. The car warmed up pretty quick. I didnt know what I did wrong. I also put the car to D and the RPM dropped to about 1200 and stayed there also.
So I left everything and waited the next day to work on it again.
This time I d/c the negative terminal on the battery, took out the tb again and see what was going on.
The IACV was stuck on hard but I managed to take it apart. It was filthy. I played around with the IAC and separated the sensor from its body. I found out that it was magnetic lol. If you remove the sensor from the valve itself, you will see this little piece in between a bearing that can be twisted. At first it was hard to twist because there was so much black deposit in valve. I think that was the reason for the messed up idle. I cleaned the valve and made sure that the piece would spin easily.
I didnt mess with the sensor and just connected it back to the valve. then put it back to the tb. I didnt mess with the tps. After all that, I put the tb back on the car, reconnected the battery, removed the radiator cap and started the engine.
When I started the car, the rpm went to about 1700 stayed there for a couple seconds then dropped down to 1200 and by the time it warmed to to regular temp, the rpm was at about 700-800.
Idle seems more smooth and when I drive I can feel the difference from before. If this is confusing sorry try reading the long story short part.
Long story short:
-idle was really low and felt rough (350-500)
-took tb out, removed map sensor, then took butterfly out and cleaned it
-put it back on car, idle stayed constant at around 2000 even when warmed up to normal temp
-next day, d/c negative terminal, removed tb and took off the iacv.
-iacv was really dirty, removed the sensor from the valve itself and cleaned it
-i made sure that the part where you can spin, spun easily cause it didnt before I cleaned it.
-attached everything back, put the tb back on the car
-reconnected battery, removed the radiator cap
-started car, idle stayed at 1700 for a couple seconds but dropped down to 1200 and by the time it reached normal temp, the rpm was at around 700-800.
-closed the radiator cap test drove.
conclusion:
the car seems to idle a lot better, more smooth and when im driving; honestly, I can feel the difference. It does feel more smooth. It beats the feeling of being paranoid that your car might die.
I just wanted to share with you guys just incase you ever encounter this problem. You might not need to get a new IACV or anything. I was so close to buying it. Luckily I decided to take a look at everything again.
Oh and if you have a CL light for the IACV, try to take it out from the tb and clean it. make sure you separate its sensor from the valve itself to clean it.
I hope this helps.
