Oil Leak Coming From Oil Pressure Switch, Spool Valve, or Oil Pan?

Discussion in 'Accord Tech' started by CDsDontBurn, Mar 25, 2018.

  1. CDsDontBurn

    CDsDontBurn Well-Known Member

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    I've been living with an oil leak for some time already and I've been unable to trace the exact source of the leak, but from what I can tell....and reading a few threads, it's likely from one of those three locations....in that order:

    • Oil Pressure Switch (#16)
    • Spool Valve (#13)
    • Oil Pan, specifically the oil pan seal (we know the v6 doesn't have gaskets)

    There is another possibility that my leak comes from the oil pump seal located behind the crank of the oil pump assembly (#23). I have found two threads, HERE and HERE, stating that it's from the pressure switch, but it's still hard for me to determine the exact area my leak is coming from exactly.

    So my questions to everyone here are this:

    Which of the two components, pressure switch (#16) or spool valve (#13) would be the easiest to access? If both are just as difficult to access, should I just replace both at the same time? Also, does the pressure switch require the engine block to be drained of oil. Logic tells me that the spool valve does require the engine block to be drained of oil. Lastly, are there any other things that may cause an oil leak from anything I haven't already covered?

    For about $45 (shipped), I can just buy both and do the job once, but I'd never know which one was truly the issue....if it solves the issue since it could still be the oil pan seal. If it's the oil pan seal, then I'd need to remove the oil pan, clean it and the engine block off of old sealant and apply new sealant (Honda Bond). The last possibility being the oil pump assembly seal, and that would require removing the timing belt.....which I did about 1.5yrs ago now and don't really feel like going through all that again so soon, lol.

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  2. Cherryelky305

    Cherryelky305 Active Member

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    Both those are easy to get too id do both but you should really reseal the oil pump too.

    #2 is gonna be just as old and stiff as #13
     
  3. CDsDontBurn

    CDsDontBurn Well-Known Member

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    #2 appears to be behind the oil pump assembly? That looks like it would require doing the timing belt and a whole lot more.
     
  4. Cherryelky305

    Cherryelky305 Active Member

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    That's correct and it also requires oil pan removal. I guess it depends how long you plan to keep the car
     
  5. cl206

    cl206 Well-Known Member

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    I replaced both 13 and 16. They weren't too bad. I don't believe you have to drain the oil. The top of my engine oil filter housing had been collecting oil, very slowly but after both of those were replaced it stopped. I think I still might have a tiny bit of oil leak somewhere else as there is a little but of oil on the oil pan bolt, but it is really really small so I just wipe it once in a while. Speaking of which Ill take a look later tonight and report back.

    For me 16 was tricky as heck because you can't turn a full turn and sometimes I used a longer wrench and sometimes a shorter wrench. Was a PITA.
     

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