Please help me with my h22 wiring before I overheat!

[ib042129]

Chances are he sent you a basemap using eCtune. It is supposed to blink 2 or 3 times, depending on the version, once the key is turned to IGN on. Your running rich problem is because its a basemap. Xenocron probably was conservative with the fuel map to ensure you don't run lean.

As for one cylinder running cooler, are you checking the temp of each runner with an infra-red temp sensor? Check your plugs, wires, etc. Also do a compression test. If you are running lower compression on that cylinder, you might have to pull some fuel from that cylinder. (You can do it with eCtune). This could also be why you seem to be running rich. If you smell gas, chances are that it is from that cylinder.

As for the temp gauge, the 98-99 Accords use the extra wire on the head, the one that you don't have wired. The 00+ Accords use the ECU to send the signal to the cluster. Why your fans don't work has nothing to do with the gauge. There is something up with the wiring here. I am gonna be working on my brother's Accord with the H23 this week. When I find an easy way to solve the problem, I will post it.

Well. I think he used Crome. And the light does not blink. It just stays on right away. Can't be cleared and can't be read. I'm talking to Xenocron about this.
One reason for running rich could be the same problem that Drift had with his accord. And that is the fuel pressure in the Accord is higher than H22. I will try the fuel pressure regulator and see if that helps.

I should check the compression.

But here is the thing. I tried the old Chip that was NOT tuned to the new injectros, and there I can read the CEL. And it is code 16 = injectors.
Now the thing is, I don't trust that code because the injectors are different size.

It could possibly also be a weak spark. The spark plug is new. So I may get new Dizzy cap, rotor and wires. Since the engine has an internal coil, I guess I need a cap from an Accord, or I heard Civic Si 2000.

I will try to check my wiring AGAIN, and AGAIN. But I doubt I missed anything.
I mean the injectros are just cut old socket, solder new.

Coudl I have fired something on the ECU?

Edit: Can someone confirm on what Distributor cap and rotor do I need to get that would fit jdm H22 with internal coil?

 

[S-spec]

What kind of injectors are you using? High or low impedence? If they are low, are you running a resistor box?

Which ECU are you using again?

 

[ib042129]

What kind of injectors are you using? High or low impedence? If they are low, are you running a resistor box?

Which ECU are you using again?

I'm using the Chiped p28 from Xenocron.
Injectors are high impedance 440cc from Xenocron
(I replaced them when I thought my low impedance injectors were bad.)
So, no resistor box.

 

[S-spec]

I'm using the Chiped p28 from Xenocron.
Injectors are high impedance 440cc from Xenocron
(I replaced them when I thought my low impedance injectors were bad.)
So, no resistor box.

So I assume you made the necessary wiring modifications since you removed the resistor box? I know it sounds elementary, but its hard to e-diagnose stuff.

 

[ib042129]

Yes. The wiring is as it should be.
I actually had a half hour free from work today. and I decided to check the wiring agan. I check the injectors, they are 15.5 ohms. Then I decided to check the wiring at the ECU connector. Measure resistance between the injector wire and the igp2. And I get 15.6 ohms for the resistors. So that was correct.
Then I decided to open up the ECU and measure resistance of the injectors by connecting to the inside of the ECU socket instead. After the conversion harness that is.
So at the ECU cylinder 3 has been giving me some inconsistent values. Like 15.6 ohms for a sec, then open, then like 10K. So I bent the socket a little to create friction. The resistance then became consistent for all injectors.

I ran the car. All 4 exhaust pipes are really hot. The car does not like me removing Cylinder 3 spark plug wire anymore. (Before it did not care.)
So I may have fixed that problem.

BUT! BUT!
The car is still really rich. (No fuel pressure regulator yet.)
CEL light still on and I still can't read it.
And the idle is high but unstable.

EDIT: DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT DIZZY CAP AND ROTOR WILL FIT? (Cause all H22 stuff here has external coils!)

 

[Egi7]

Hey, did you ever get it worked out?



-MIke

 

[ib042129]

Hey, did you ever get it worked out?



-MIke

Yes. Got the car tuned this week.
Xenocron actually kind of screwed up.
I had one bad chip. And a bad obd2-obd1 harness.
He did send me a new chip last weekend.
But because of the harness I had to get the car towed to
a mechanic, and buy a new one.

But now it works. 189Hp, 161Tq. Works till 7,2k RPM.
The car's a beast now.

Although i have a little bit of an issue with idle. But I have some ideas on that.
Pluss I still need to put some minor things back in. Basically clean things up.