wg2k7
Well-Known Member
no...please elaborate on that. its on the left prong of the fuse, but the problem is it never getting power, not always getting power.
read if you have stock hu and subs
- Thread starter wg2k7
- Start date
ok, well, a fuse is a part in the line of the wire. when the car is turned to "on" and the fuse is taken out, you take a 12volt tester, hook up the ground of the tester to anywhere close, and you take the positive side of the tester, or the prong, and put it to one side of the fuse outlet, if it lights (mine has a light that lights up), thats the side that delivers the power. if you do what i just said, and the tester doesnt light, then thats the side that you wanna fuse tap on. this way if something goes wrong, the fuse will pop. if you hook it to the side that gets the power, you could mess up whatever runs its power thru that fuse.
thats the way i think it is. i havent fuse tapped anything in a while, so it could be the other way around. but ill double check tomorrow and let you know, unless someone reads this between now and then. but yea, ill check tomorrow for you and let you know. but im pretty sure i got it the right way.
thats the way i think it is. i havent fuse tapped anything in a while, so it could be the other way around. but ill double check tomorrow and let you know, unless someone reads this between now and then. but yea, ill check tomorrow for you and let you know. but im pretty sure i got it the right way.
wg2k7
Well-Known Member
that makes sense. that sounds like more of a safety issue then the problem im having though, unless there has already been a problem and somehow the remote wire is now faulty.
wg2k7 said:
true, but say you did do it the "bad way" and you slightly made something a little retarded, hahaha, that would explain why it wouldnt work fully all the time. did you double check ALL the connections? i know my sub wouldnt play a while ago cuz the ground for the amp was loose, and i thought it was something else.
wg2k7
Well-Known Member
no i know for a fact its the remote. it didnt work for a while and remote wire had come a little bit loose so i redid that (that was at the amp) and when i touched the remote terminal to the power terminal via screwdriver (by accident) the speakers would start booming, then when i lifted the screwdriver ending the connection they stopped. common sense tells me that that means the remote terminal is not getting a signal from the car.
talontsiawd
Well-Known Member
Everyone i know who has used a fuse for a source runs into problems. I'd just get a multimeter out and splice the wire from the harness. I did it off my stereo harness when i only had a sub for a bit. If you do it cleanly, it won't matter. It will be noticeable but i wouldn't worry, or wait two months. Or mess with some fuse and hope it works.
accordturbo
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dude it doesnt matter the size of the fuse. u can go to the fuse box on the driver side and take the fuse out and wrap the wire around it and push it back in. just make sure the wire is in there good. it doesnt matter what size the wire is or the fuse because all the remote wire does is turn the amp on. i wouldnt splice anything into the stock head unit because the wires are to small and they are hard to put back together. hope u didnt get this to late. layta
if you are not that good with wires then just hook up a simple switch from the amps possitive terminal to the remote input and run the wire to the front seat, like you said its just a temp fix. to get a little bit more technical, the amps remote input doest draw much in order to turn on, it only needs .7amps at 12 volts to turn the amp on. and if you really dont know what you are doing, just take it somewhere, they may charge you 20 bucks and fix your problem the right way.
