Replacing brake pads, what parts do I need to buy?

uschonda

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Obviously, I need the brake pads but what else would I need to replace at this time (clips, pins, screws, etc)? I'm having a mechanic do the labor, I'm buying the parts. I'm changing all 4 brake pads.

It's a 98 accord, 4 cyl.

Also, when doing an auto transmission fluid change, is 3 quarts enough? I'm getting that done also.
 

DarkSideAccord

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the brake pads u buy should come with everything u need.. u might want to get new shims as well... also, check the rotors if they're ok.. if they vibrate when u brake, u need them resurfaced... if they're also worn, u need new ones....

btw, brake jobs are easy.. search the DIY forum and u'll get a lot of tips from there ;)
 

cliffsta

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All you should need is the pads, and maybe some anti-squeal. Why not do it yourself, though? Its super easy. I've been doing my own brakes since I was 17, and helping my dad do his since I was younger than that. Only tools you need are a C-Clamp and a few ratchets, maybe a hammer. But if you can't, that's cool too.
 

ryan s

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be like it is
i rip the shims off right away and dont use lube :eh: :run:

the shims just squeak later on and have to be taken off.

also, never ever replace just pads...since the rotors are scored it will just score the pads and reduce their effectiveness. rotors are cheap anyway.

are you getting a shop hookup? better hope your rotor screws come off easy if theyre still in :skurred: those are a bitch to get out, especially if someone else was teh fail at getting em out the first time. took me almost an hour to do the rear ones on the drivers side. my labor is cheap, shops are not :(
 

cliffsta

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Well I didin't lube mine either, and the shims came with my pads... I was just trying to give a positive by-the-book example :lol:

Just drill the rotor screws, problem solved. I didn't even try to unscrew mine, we just drilled them. As for rotors... you don't always need to replace them. As long as you didn't let your old pads get down to metal and gauge them up, and they aren't super-worn, then keep 'em. I assume you're not auto-x racing the car, so odds are your current rotors are fine. If you/they feel like blowing the dough, then get them resurfaced or if they have a lip, get them machined.
 

DarkSideAccord

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^^do it right the first time ;) a smooth rotor will mean ur pads will wear out evenly, thus lasting longer..
 

pyaarawala

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After how many miles should both the rotors and brake pads be changed? Can I get a new caliper while I'm at it?
 

uschonda

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thanks for the feedback guys. Greatly appreciated. I don't have the time for a DIY plus the mechanic I go to is one block from work. Makes it easy for me to drop it off and pick it up after I get off.

Brakes are just squeaking. The rotors are good. I have high mileage on the car so I'm just going to the local Auto zone or pep boys and picking up the most affordable set.
 

cliffsta

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After how many miles should both the rotors and brake pads be changed? Can I get a new caliper while I'm at it?

Changing the calliper is a lot more work (gotta bleed the brakes, etc)... probably not needed unless its broken.

Darkside: My only problem with that is pads are cheaper than rotors, and since he is buying A-Z crap-pads, padlife is pretty much irrelevant. Not to mention you get the Lifetime Warranty with the A-Z pads... my dad paid for one set of brakepads for the '80 model truck, and got new ones for free for 20+ years :rofl:
 

ryan s

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but if the brakes are squealing now, chances are theyll still squeal once the new pads groove into the old rotors. thats why brakes squeal when theyre not worn out...

do it right the first time, or pay twice in the end.
 
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