Something may be wrong with my oil

[Hoff Daddy]

I have a 99 f23a1 accord with 205k mi on it. This car runs very, very good. Compression is strong, maybe a little better when warm, but the rings seem to be in decent condition for the milage. So the only problem I could point out is the rings are slightly worn and that may contribute to a small amount of oil consumption in these cold months. Oil consumption isn't bad, usually if I can actually get the oil to read right then by the time it's ready to change oil the oil level will move just slightly below the top line and I don't have to add any oil. The thing is though is I can never get the dipstick to read right. The car must be stone cold to get a read, otherwise the oil will barely touch the dipstick even if the car has sat for 10mins. It really does not make any sense unless it's taking forever for the oil to drain all the way down and my block would have to swell a lot. So next oil change I'm going to use some of that oil system clean out stuff, maybe there's a blockage. The last thing that catches my eye is that the oil light will come on for about 3 seconds after I start the car and I will never see it again. Once again this car has me dumbstruck and clueless.

 

[xci.ed6]

which oil light?

the red one that says 'OIL'?

or

the amber one that says 'Maint. Req'd'?

 

[Hoff Daddy]

which oil light?

the red one that says 'OIL'?

or

the amber one that says 'Maint. Req'd'?

Red oil light. My Maint. Req'd light comes on when you turn the key and then it goes away like battery lights and cels sometimes do. I reset the Maint. Req'd light because it's just a mileage timer right? It hasn't come on and stayed on since. The red oil light concerns me because it stays on for a few seconds.

 

[xci.ed6]

ah, yup. That is a problem.

What brand oil did you use?

What weight oil did you use?

Any additives?

When, mileage, did you change or add oil or additive?

 

[Hoff Daddy]

ah, yup. That is a problem.

What brand oil did you use?

What weight oil did you use?

Any additives?

When, mileage, did you change or add oil or additive?

Oh yeah I forgot to say. I use 10w-40 Castrol gtx high mileage it's a synthetic blend. No additives. I changed my oil at 200k so it's due for a change in about 200mi. I added oil about 150mi ago because I didn't have a read on the dipstick but the car was a little warm. I normally don't add any.

 

[xci.ed6]

ah, k...

damn...

how's the oil look? The normal or super dirty? You may need some prior experience with car to know this...

Or pull your dipstick, clean it (scotch brite pads then paper towels work nice ). Then redip it, remove it, and wipe it on a FRESH WHITE paper towel. Repeat like 5x, so you hae one super wet place n the paper towel. Any black crud show up?

When you shut off the motor, and check it immediately, it shows the bottom thing, right? Then you wait and it show the full thing? How long do you wait?

 

[Hoff Daddy]

My oil is pretty clean. Ever since I've had it I've kept up with the maintenance. Oil is just normal brown color. If I just shut the car off and check the dipstick there's about nothing on it. If I wait until the car is stone cold then it's normal and reads full. I don't know how long I have to wait it depends, I'd give it probably 30-45mins. Normally I just check it after the car has sat for a long time like in the morning before I leave the house or later in the night long after I get home.
Whenever I did add oil this time I added 1/2 quart and about 5-10mins later the level on the dipstick didn't move. This is why I'm thinking I could have a clogged drain back passage. It's weird though because of how clean my oil is and that I've kept up on maintenance.

 

[xci.ed6]

Yeah, that's the only idea I have

Try to see the passages, basically, just do another valve adjustment, so the cover is off, and have a look. Might need something flexible, like wire.

And check the actual pressure, with a gauge, to see what it really is.

Also drop the oil pan, to make sure the lower pan is clean and the 'sucker' clean. The oil intake tube, thing.

 

[Hoff Daddy]

Yeah, that's the only idea I have

Try to see the passages, basically, just do another valve adjustment, so the cover is off, and have a look. Might need something flexible, like wire.

And check the actual pressure, with a gauge, to see what it really is.

Also drop the oil pan, to make sure the lower pan is clean and the 'sucker' clean. The oil intake tube, thing.

That sounds like a good idea. I'll get the oil flush additive, do that then drain the oil, drop the pan, clean the pickup, then manually clean the oil passages. This does not sound fun. Once the oil is changed I'll do a pressure test.

 

[xci.ed6]

yeah, pretty much...having a car hoist makes pan drops better, sort...

I would check the passages with the pan off in case it needs cleaned.

To clean it, I use a rifle bore cleaner brush It has a round, long, wire brush, of any size!
I 'modified' (more like, f'd the threads ) mine to fit on a flexible fiberglass rod.

And the pressure test, I cheaped out on mine, I used brass fittings and rubber hose to fit a water pressure gauge from home depot, it was like $10, the other parts (fittings/hose) set me back like $5. I just used mine for testing. Like 15 minutes at most. It's still working, but I clean it every time for seal problems.