Starting/electrical problems, am I on the right track?

[gswarriorsluvr]

The Problem:

*Can be jump started, runs (harder lately)
*Turns off while driving (now more often)
*While driving, when I feel the car is dying, I step on gas pedal/pump it, car continues to run but eventually dies out.
*Battery is drained, put in fairly good one, drained that too
*No check engine lights, maintenance lights or other indicators
*Engine/Transmission sounds normal
*When turning key to on, I hear fuel pump ok

Possible Problems

-Alternator Contacts
-Starter Contacts
-Battery Contacts
-Ground Contacts
-Clean Fuel Injectors

> Will be doing these first, going to clean all contacts, tighten them. Will test w/ voltmeter.

-Main Relay
-Fuel Filter
-Fuel Pump
-Ignition Coil
-Ignition Control Module
-Ignition Distributor

> I've pulled Main Relay, inspecting it, has some cracking in solder for some contacts.

Ruled Out

-Alternator (tested to be ok, will retest)
-Distributor Cap changed
-Ignition Wires changed
-Spark Plugs changed
-Starter (cranks, engine chokes, started car)

 

[Asian Invasion]

I say its the alternator. and it has ruined the battery.
alternator works fine until it gets warmed up. then quits charging. car dies after battery runs out of juice. battery is now bad because it has been deepcycled too many times.

this is just my therory.

 

[00AccordLX5spd]

Sounds like a bad alternator to me too.

 

[ryan s]

what did your battery measure off, then with the car on? do we know if the first one and the replacement were really drained?

being here (and you being there lol) i cant tell, but sounds like a fuel or ignition issue...

 

[gswarriorsluvr]

yeah, first test measured 13-13.8 volts car on so i know alternator is still cool. I'm narrowing it down to the main relay and fuel filter and work my way from there.

 

[Shofast]

This sounds like an alternator problem. Get it tested, its free at most auto parts stores.

Most charging systems will put out 14.5 volts, so 13 is very low. Battery voltage is 12.5. Are you checking at the battery terminals? Are the terminals clean and tight?

 

[BPAccord]

u should take both alternator and battery for test....i had a bad alternator and didnt no bout it till my car died on the freeway cuz i ran out of juice...had the alternator replaced couple days after but car kept shuttin off...come to find battery needed to be charged after all that time it wasnt gettin recharged by the alternator...do both tests...then work ur way down......

 

[gswarriorsluvr]

*Put in newer battery, has power, retains it.

*Tested main relay, clicks on and off, so normal. Has some oxidation and slight crack in some solder which I'll go ahead and resolder.

*FUEL PUMP! It turns on, starts whirling, but doesn't stop - keeps whirling...

I'm going to buy a new fuel pump and hopefully this is it.

 

[gswarriorsluvr]

Took a closer look at fuel pump, turns out to be ok, something electrical affecting it. Alternator retested - ok. Gonna look at:
*ignition coil
*ignition control module

 

[00AccordLX5spd]

Don't waste your money on the fuel pump. This is obviously an electrical problem. A faulty fuel pump would not cause these sypmtoms. I doubt it is the main relay causing those symptoms either. As per your earlier post you said the battery is retaining power. Do you still have to jump start it though? Are the battery connections clean and tight? Have you checked the battery cables for damage?
Other possible causes:
-Bad ignition switch (was your car affected by the recall from Honda?)
-Bad igniter