Starting Problem, doesn't seem to be firing right

[aspehals]

So the other morning I tried to start my car (2000 4cyl SE sedan), and it would turn over, just not fire. I first thought it was the battery since it was a very old and weak one, so I replaced it with a brand new battery. After that, the problem didn't change at all. Luckily, I was working in low light, and saw some arcing in the distributor cap when I tried to start it. So last night I replaced the distributor cap and ignition rotor. It helped...but there is still another larger problem. When I tried to start it, it was getting spark and fuel (I could smell gas, and some cylinders would ignite every so often), but would not run at idle. It seems to me that the timing is somehow off...since it was so rough when trying to start it.

Any help on this would be very much appreciated, I need this car to drive to work every day! It's weird how this happened all of the sudden.

 

[BlkCurrantKord]

Well you covered all the basics. Did you change plugs?

I'm assuming 4cyl?

 

[RichBinAZ]

Changed the distributer cap... Is it possible to put the wires onto the wrong plugs
It could just be wet plugs though

 

[001Stunna]

After you changed the cap and rotor, did you rehook all the spark wires properly?

The cylinders on our cars are labeled as
4|3|2|1

The distributor cap is.

 

[aspehals]

Thanks for the ideas...I finally got it running over the weekend. Sorry I've been out of power from Sandy for the past week and couldn't get on the forum from home.

I made sure that I had the wires hooked up the same as they were originally (I took a picture). I decided to change the plugs and the wires on Saturday morning. Once I did that, it took a little while for it to finally start (maybe 20-30sec of cranking), but it started running normally. It was knocking for a while until it warmed up, but I think that's normal. I took it for a little drive, and noticed that when coming to a stop, or when the revs are coming back down to idle, it would get VERY close to stalling, but recover. However this eventually went away..still not sure why. Is that the computer adjusting to the new plugs?

Anyway, I drove it to work today and yesterday (200 total miles), and it's running well. The only issue I have is that one of the screws for the distributor cap broke in half when I tried to take it out...and half of it is still sitting in the distributor. So I only have 2 screws holding it in place right now. I'll have to get that fixed...I don't want rain/moisture getting in there and ruining things!

 

[001Stunna]

I had that happen to me on my previous distributor and tapping it out or using reverse screws didn't work as it's so small. Ended up drilling the distributor body with the smallest bit i could find and used a screw/nut combo...jbwelding the nut on the distributor side so its locked in place.

Thanks for the ideas...I finally got it running over the weekend. Sorry I've been out of power from Sandy for the past week and couldn't get on the forum from home.

I made sure that I had the wires hooked up the same as they were originally (I took a picture). I decided to change the plugs and the wires on Saturday morning. Once I did that, it took a little while for it to finally start (maybe 20-30sec of cranking), but it started running normally. It was knocking for a while until it warmed up, but I think that's normal. I took it for a little drive, and noticed that when coming to a stop, or when the revs are coming back down to idle, it would get VERY close to stalling, but recover. However this eventually went away..still not sure why. Is that the computer adjusting to the new plugs?

Anyway, I drove it to work today and yesterday (200 total miles), and it's running well. The only issue I have is that one of the screws for the distributor cap broke in half when I tried to take it out...and half of it is still sitting in the distributor. So I only have 2 screws holding it in place right now. I'll have to get that fixed...I don't want rain/moisture getting in there and ruining things!

 

[stayfly33]

i think im having a problem with my timing being off. i have a 99 ex 5sp and when im accelerating up hill i sometimes hear a clicking noise coming from the engine. if i take my foot off the gas it stops but once i press it more it comes back. also its not very smooth when i accelerate at a steady pace. im thinking about changing my spark plugs and wires and seeing if that helps but im thinking it has to do with the timing as well.

whats the best way to check/fix the timing? the instructions in my helms manual are very complicated it seems and i cant understand it

 

[stayfly33]

bump!.....

 

[DarkSideAccord]

u need a timing gun

take it to a shop if u have no idea how to do it

 

[stayfly33]

yea i know about the timing gun part but what i wasnt sure about was jumping that cable but after watching a couple youtube videos i get it i just hope thats the problem with my car. and other suggestions?

like i said under load the engine seems to lose power and i hear a clicking noise coming from the engine. like i said i think it has to do with either the timing or the spark plugs.
from what ive read online people say its detonation which has to do with the timing being off