Suspension Issue, "Pang" over bump

[Nowheremon]

Hi guys and gals. I am looking to find out why I get a "pang" when going over bumps with my passenger side front wheel. When it comes to car suspension I don't know much, but throw a motorcycle Ohlins suspension at me and I can set up any rider for their preferences.

I have isolated the sound to the front right by driving up the driveway on that wheel, on the front left, and over pot holes by driving myself and watching outside while a friend drove it.

I have 100K miles on the car and everything has been okay. I did have to replace gear 2 clutch pack . That was expensive.

The car tracks straight and there is no alignment issues that I know of. Any advice guys?

I will upload some pictures below. Please help me identify as the car is currently floating in the garage and I'd like to get this back on the road .

I uploaded images as 100kb apiece. Let me know if you want them enlarged.

 

[Nowheremon]

It does not sound like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36QW9UgGC9Q

Read this post on driveaccord :

Noise,
Also the sway bar link was sloppy, replaced and got rid of bumping noise that had plagued the car. I used Moog brand links because I was trying to get it back together that evening and O’Reilly’s was still open. They were much beefier than OEM. Looked more like a tie rod end! The original are small and look like the ball and socket end of a hood strut.

As for as longevity,
On the last several Honda's I have noticed that the front struts need replacing around 150K. Also, the sway bar bushings wear out(become loose) and need replacing every 80 or 100k. But we do drive mostly county roads, which are notorious for having uneven pavement and potholes. They are cheap and easy to change. Change the rubber bushings(four points of attachment, two are bar to body rubber bushings).
When the bushings are bad, you get a bump sound when entering drives, or at low speed on uneven pavement.


If you are considering DIY...
Not a bad job. Easier than timing belt. Just repetitive.
Get a HELM manuel, it will pay for itself many times over, rent(borrow) a strut compressor from Oreilly's. You can wrench it yourself, if you don't have an air impact(I have). Work slowly and carefully and you can save four to six hundred dollars.
Do not over compress the springs, when removing old struts. As long as you follow procedure and put the weight back onto the suspension, before doing the final tightning of the bolts, and tighten them in the correct order, you should not throw it out of alignment. But, I take it to be aligned afterwards anyway... Tires are expensive!

In my opinion, for electrical parts, struts, bushings, and brake pads; stick with OEM. They just perform better and last longer. Especially brake pads..
DB.

More fun:

No odd tire wear to note. No leaks I think. I'll add edits to this.

 

[Nowheremon]

LOL > See below. Sound may have been on the right, but the sway bar end link was VERY clearly broken on the LEFT side. I'll leave this for someone else dealing with CLUNKS.


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[305S0L]

LOL > See below. Sound may have been on the right, but the sway bar end link was VERY clearly broken on the LEFT side. I'll leave this for someone else dealing with CLUNKS.


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Hi OP! Ive dealt with clunks like youve described and by the looks of this photo it could be that endlink. Inspect it up close and see if theres any gaps were the ends link up. I would recommend replacing them just based off the rust appearance. A new pair could run you only about $25 bucks

 

[xci.ed6]

I can't tell very well from pictures.

Jack the car up and grab something then SHAKE THE F'K OUT OF IT! Look for any strange movements from bushings while doing so. If you see nothing odd, move to the next thing. Then the next. Etc...

A 'pang' sounds like sheet metal (from the fender well to the UCA).

A 'bang' sounds like castings (the spindle or the LCA)

There are other generic terms for other types of noises. Which may or may not be known or used correctly.