Tachometer problem

cumsies

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2017
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Fresno, CA
so recently, while driving, I noticed that my tachometer doesn't go above 3000 rpms. when I accelerate, it gets stuck at around 2,600 - 2,900 ish. but I don't have any problem with accelerating at all. (?) when I'm sure I'm revving up around the 4,000 margin, I look at the tachometer and notice that it's still stuck around 2,900. I have no clue what's causing it. since I have very little experience with cars in general, I thought I'd come ask here.

uh, 99 accord lx sedan. automatic.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Connie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2016
Posts
257
Reaction score
3
Location
Ontario, Canada
so recently, while driving, I noticed that my tachometer doesn't go above 3000 rpms. when I accelerate, it gets stuck at around 2,600 - 2,900 ish. but I don't have any problem with accelerating at all. (?) when I'm sure I'm revving up around the 4,000 margin, I look at the tachometer and notice that it's still stuck around 2,900. I have no clue what's causing it. since I have very little experience with cars in general, I thought I'd come ask here.

uh, 99 accord lx sedan. automatic.

Try tapping on your cluster, sometimes that brings things back.

If the thing is running fine, it's most likely an issue with the cluster itself.
I have had several cluster issues with these cars over the years. Burned out bulbs, a speedo that only works sometimes, a fuel gauge that gets stuck at the top, odometers flaking out, warning lights burning out, and a tach that stays at zero all the time.

I have a good spare at the moment, but it reads 412000km and is for a V6 (tachometer will read 33.3% too low if hooked up to a 4 cylinder car). You are welcome to it if you like.

Usually a scrapyard cluster does the trick, but make sure you get it from a 30-day return policy place, because the used clusters are just as hit-or-miss.

In fact, at the moment in my 02 accord, it does this disco-light thing where every single warning light comes on and shows that all doors are open as I am driving down the highway, acting as if the key is in position 2 and the engine is off. It's usually a quick flicker and at most stays on for 5 seconds. Engine never misses a beat when it happens, and I have no codes. I am almost sure it's the cluster, but the car has accurate mileage on the odometer and I'm trying to break 500k, so I'm just ignoring it for now.

You could check the multi-ground; 4 or 5 ground wires that come together and are grounded up under the dash on the driver's side. You need to take a
few interior panels and the radio/climate control stuff out to get to it. But if it's loose, poorly grounded, corroded or disconnected; it can contribute to tachometer/gauge issues as well.
 

cumsies

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2017
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Fresno, CA
so just now, I started my car, cold start, and decided to see if the problem was still there and the tach actually went up past 3000. for all of yesterday and the night before, the tachometer wasn't rising. not sure why it started working all of a sudden and not sure if it will happen again, although it probably will.

not sure if I should still check the ground wires or not. should i?
 

Connie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2016
Posts
257
Reaction score
3
Location
Ontario, Canada
If it was me, I wouldn't lose much sleep over it, especially in an automatic. It isn't going to hurt to check them, but I think your issue is internal to the cluster. Temperature and humidity changes will affect issues like this, especially with 18-year-old solder joints and that plastic circuit-board-overlay thing that is used in the gauge cluster as part of the board. If it bothers you that much, just try another cluster. Cheap and available from the junk yards and a piece of cake to swap out in a few minutes. Just be patient when sliding it in and out so you don't break any of the tabs.

Before I go and start digging around at wiring under the dash, I would first want to know with 100% certainty that the cluster is not the issue. Just remember that you need a 4-cylinder cluster for a 4-cylinder car and vice versa if you want the tachometer to read accurately. If you don't care, you can use a v-6 cluster in a 4 cylinder car and everything else will still work properly.
 

dawg316

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2016
Posts
180
Reaction score
0
Location
canada
sounds like a **** cluster. dont even see the need of a tacho on an auto. so your call if you wanan replace it
 

cumsies

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2017
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Fresno, CA
If it was me, I wouldn't lose much sleep over it, especially in an automatic. It isn't going to hurt to check them, but I think your issue is internal to the cluster. Temperature and humidity changes will affect issues like this, especially with 18-year-old solder joints and that plastic circuit-board-overlay thing that is used in the gauge cluster as part of the board. If it bothers you that much, just try another cluster. Cheap and available from the junk yards and a piece of cake to swap out in a few minutes. Just be patient when sliding it in and out so you don't break any of the tabs.

Before I go and start digging around at wiring under the dash, I would first want to know with 100% certainty that the cluster is not the issue. Just remember that you need a 4-cylinder cluster for a 4-cylinder car and vice versa if you want the tachometer to read accurately. If you don't care, you can use a v-6 cluster in a 4 cylinder car and everything else will still work properly.
alright then. thanks a lot for the help! if it starts to bother me a lot, I'll actually look into it more. otherwise, I'll just let it be.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top