tapping after valve timing adjusted

732xghost

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a few weeks ago i have my valve timing adjusted at 82K after a few weeks of valve tapping/ticking. the mechanic told me the exhaust valves are what really needed the adjusting. after a few weeks the tapping/ticking noise started to come back.

now what im wondering if this is a common occurance on F23's? My friend has an 01 Accord 4cyl and just went through the same exact issue im going through. The work was done at the Honda dealership im currently at now but i start at a different Honda dealership on Monday so next week ill try and get an opinion from them.

but in the mean time, any ideas?
 

F23A1AT

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Something is loose. Also if these motors aren't tapping a little bit... something is wrong. Nuff said.
 

nsjames

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how many miles on your oil?

Do you have a FRAM filter?
 

nsjames

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warm @2K rpms and up or just at idle?

if just at idle I'd say that's normal for a higher mileage motor that's lost a few PSI of oil pressure.
If it happens warm throughout the RPM range then I would be more concerned, concerned enough to put a mechanical gauge on it and check the oil pressure at a hot idle.
I'm not sure what Honda says it should be, but as a general rule you should have about 15 PSI of oil pressure at a hot idle. Anything less and you're looking at severely worn internal parts.
 

finch13

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warm @2K rpms and up or just at idle?

if just at idle I'd say that's normal for a higher mileage motor that's lost a few PSI of oil pressure.
If it happens warm throughout the RPM range then I would be more concerned, concerned enough to put a mechanical gauge on it and check the oil pressure at a hot idle.
I'm not sure what Honda says it should be, but as a general rule you should have about 15 PSI of oil pressure at a hot idle. Anything less and you're looking at severely worn internal parts.

It's not a bearing knock, it's valvetrain noise. The F23's have have an adjustable flat-tappet valvetrain system, so oil pressure is not necessary to maintain the proper valve lash.

OP, what most likely happened is the tech didn't eyeball the cam gear marks close enough on cyl #2 and #3 when he was making his adjustments. On those cylinders, the marks on the cam gear should be at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions, which can be hard to get perfect since the engine sits at about a 60º angle. Take it back and tell him the noise is still there. Also, the cylinders HAS to be under 100ºF before you can adjust the valves. The colder the better, I prefer to do them at about 70ºF.
 
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