Timing belt & water pump

[JDM_Rook]

I am looking to get a new timing belt and water pump for my stock F23. Any reccomendations on either part? Also thinking of maybe getting a lightened crank pulley. Ebay has OBX for $63. What is there reputation? Would it be okay to run a lightened crank pulley and have the other pulleys stock weight?

 

[finch13]

What does this have to do with the timing belt and water pump?

You're not going to see any benefit to a lightweight crank pulley besides looks. The stock pulley is fairly small in diameter, I can't see it having a ton of rotational mass, plus it's a harmonic balancer to reduce crankshaft vibrations.

 

[JDM_Rook]

The crank pulley doesn't have anything to do with the timing belt and water pump, it was just off the topic. I bought a salvage yard short block, which is in the machine shop now getting dissassembled, honed, bearings checked, hot tanked, new pistons rings installed, new rear main seal. I want to get a new timing belt and water pump as well, but i think i will just do that myself. Put it on an engine stand, and with assitance install cylinder head.

 

[finch13]

Ah, well I don't recommend anything less than OEM for those critical parts.

You need (for sure):
- Timing belt (Unitta)
- Balancer belt (Unitta)
- (2) Tensioner pulleys (Koyo)
- Water pump

You may need new springs for the tensioner arms, depending on their condition (stretched coils), although I don't know how important they are since the adjuster nut locks the tension in place.

 

[9450erick]

why do people say when you brake your timing belt just go ahead and throw the motor away(like u blew it up or something) cant you just change the belt after its been torn.
kind of a thread jack but still kinda related

 

[finch13]

No. Our engines are interference engines, meaning if the cam isn't correctly timed with the crank, the valves will hit the pistons.

Most of the time you'll bend a few valves, sometimes you'll pierce the piston. Usually a new engine is cheaper than fixing the old one.

 

[MARSHIN2]

No. Our engines are interference engines, meaning if the cam isn't correctly timed with the crank, the valves will hit the pistons.

Most of the time you'll bend a few valves, sometimes you'll pierce the piston. Usually a new engine is cheaper than fixing the old one.

i should probably change mine i'm at 98K idk if previous owner swapped it...

 

[finch13]

Interval is 7yrs/105k. I've taken off 5yr/135k belts that look brand new, 10yr/90k belts that look brand new, a 11yr/140k that was near breaking, and my own which is at about 5yrs/100k still looking brand new.

It's a guessing game as to how long the belts last past the interval... it's certainly not something to fool round with buying cheap parts.

 

[9450erick]

No. Our engines are interference engines, meaning if the cam isn't correctly timed with the crank, the valves will hit the pistons.

Most of the time you'll bend a few valves, sometimes you'll pierce the piston. Usually a new engine is cheaper than fixing the old one.

makes sense. thas what my dad told me as well. some bent valves. i find that a opportunity to upgrade lol (skunk 2 cams all the way)

if you go to a shop to get it done is it true they will charge you about $500
(IN GENERAL)
how much is the belt itself

 

[MARSHIN2]

I'll take a look at it but will most likely switch it this summer anyway.
So, i should strictly use Unitta or would the ContiTech be fine?
http://www.statracing.com/oem-repla...l=ACC-EX4-003&category=A&part=Timing+Belt+Kit