Very strange fuel related problem.

[Frisky Arab]

TP-Throttle Position
Give a clean to the TB(Throttle Body) and butterfly valve. There is a hole on the TB towards the back-upper part. You'll see it if you look at the TB from underneath or you can feel it with your finger. Spray some TB cleaner in there as well. Make sure your butterfly valve is free of gunk. Use your hand to open and close it and spray the back sides of it. Use a rag, spray TB cleaner on it and use it to clean the mating surface of the TB where the butterfly valve closes on. Once done all this put the intake boot back on and give it 5mins. Then start the car. It might be a bit hard to start at first if a fair amount of TB cleaner went down so do not push it or get worried. Once all this is done...

If you can find/borrow/buy(and return) a scanner with live data check the following.

-What is the map sensor showing with the key turned to 2nd position but not on? What does the weather channel say the atmospheric pressure for your location is?...the two values should be the same
-What does map sensor show with the car on idling?
-What does TP show with the car running without touching the pedal?
-Press the pedal slowly and look at the TP values, do they increase gradually or not?
-What does TP show once the pedal is at bare bottom?
-What does it show when you release the pedal at once? Does it hang at all or drop directly?
-Make the scanner graph your front o2 sensor and go for a drive around an area where traffic is light if possible. When you come to a stop look at the graph and notice how long does it take for the O2 to go back to oscillating once it reaches flat top or bottom. It should do it rather fast and not hang.
-Once done the above park the car and let it settle. Make sure the fans are not running, a/c is off, headlights and electronics are off and look on the scanner for what it shows your idle to be. It should be around 700 +/-50

Connector for my torque app got here today. Set up my car's profile information. Gonna gather as much of this information as I can tomorrow. Making it my goal tonight to learn how to use all this stuff. Also gonna log my 0-60 time and 1/4 mile time just for s**ts and giggles.

 

[001Stunna]

Connector for my torque app got here today. Set up my car's profile information. Gonna gather as much of this information as I can tomorrow. Making it my goal tonight to learn how to use all this stuff. Also gonna log my 0-60 time and 1/4 mile time just for s**ts and giggles.

Having played with mine...I would not call it very accurate but if for ****s and giggles why not lol.

From my experience the best way for you to set it up is while being connected to the car. That way you WILL ONLY add the sensors your car supports to your dash view(they turn green when live on the sensor list).

PS. Use Torque Pro(you can find it for free) and don't forget to install the extra plugins you can get for Free on the google store directly.

 

[Frisky Arab]

Trying really hard to make sense of this app. Every time I run tests they are named stuff like $$&24683&* then it says test complete. Doesn't give me anything but the gibberish title and test complete next to it for all the sensor tests. Everything shows green though.

 

[001Stunna]

Trying really hard to make sense of this app. Every time I run tests they are named stuff like $$&24683&* then it says test complete. Doesn't give me anything but the gibberish title and test complete next to it for all the sensor tests. Everything shows green though.

Install app...open it...wait to connect to obd2 tool...go to live data...make your own dash from the PIDs you want to see...done.
Dont worry about running the tests etc.

 

[Frisky Arab]

Install app...open it...wait to connect to obd2 tool...go to live data...make your own dash from the PIDs you want to see...done.
Dont worry about running the tests etc.

Alright, any specific PIDs you would recommend on my dash? Also yeah that WHP test is pretty off. I highly doubt I'm getting 96.1 to the wheels on a freshly rebuilt motor with only a minor issue like this and no CEL. Nice to know how slow my 0-60 time is though. Need to find me a quiet stretch of road sometime to do the 1/4 mile test. Its a really cool app, just need to learn how to use it. Destroys my battery though lol.

 

[001Stunna]

Alright, any specific PIDs you would recommend on my dash? Also yeah that WHP test is pretty off. I highly doubt I'm getting 96.1 to the wheels on a freshly rebuilt motor with only a minor issue like this and no CEL. Nice to know how slow my 0-60 time is though. Need to find me a quiet stretch of road sometime to do the 1/4 mile test. Its a really cool app, just need to learn how to use it. Destroys my battery though lol.

I placed all the PIDs my car supports. When you go to add them, the PIDs that are green are live and supported. Once you add them you can then arrange them in the order you want them to be.

 

[Frisky Arab]

Drove around during my break today. Not much to report. Everything seems normal. Checked throttle position, at idle its 9.8%, raises gradually, drops as soon as I release the pedal. Fuel pressure is fine. Nothing strange to report really. Found out the when the idle drops it is only dropping to about 640 then bounces back up to around 700, thought it was going a lot lower then that. Only thing that seemed strange to me is that at idle my bank 1 O2 sensor's voltage was fluctuating a lot, bouncing around anywhere from 0.6 volts to the normal (whatever the normal voltage is, forgot the number) The bank 2 sensor was constant at 1 voltage. Also when I'm anywhere above about 50mph the bank 1 O2 sensor receives 0.0 voltage. Not sure if this is normal or not. Gotta get back to work, but I'll check back periodically.

 

[001Stunna]

Drove around during my break today. Not much to report. Everything seems normal. Checked throttle position, at idle its 9.8%, raises gradually, drops as soon as I release the pedal. Fuel pressure is fine. Nothing strange to report really. Found out the when the idle drops it is only dropping to about 640 then bounces back up to around 700, thought it was going a lot lower then that. Only thing that seemed strange to me is that at idle my bank 1 O2 sensor's voltage was fluctuating a lot, bouncing around anywhere from 0.6 volts to the normal (whatever the normal voltage is, forgot the number) The bank 2 sensor was constant at 1 voltage. Also when I'm anywhere above about 50mph the bank 1 O2 sensor receives 0.0 voltage. Not sure if this is normal or not. Gotta get back to work, but I'll check back periodically.

Bank1 o2 sesnor should oscillate between 0.2-0.8v at either idle or when driving. It constantly moves from rich to lean to balance out fuel trims.
Bank 2(rear) o2 sensor should oscillate and stay close to 0.5v if your cat.converter is working properly.

If your front o2 is showing 0.0v at times, that is not right. The only time it might ever do that is under WOT as the ecu will stop using o2 sensor data when under WOT.

Refer to my post a couple posts above in checking your MAP with the car off, and car on and the other mentioned when you get a chance.

Dropping to 640 and going back to 700 sounds fine to me.

 

[Frisky Arab]

Yeah it seems like 640 would be a normal rpm to drop to for an auto but I know that knocking is not normal. Ill check the map next time I drive it. Which PID is it to check the MAP?

 

[001Stunna]

Yeah it seems like 640 would be a normal rpm to drop to for an auto but I know that knocking is not normal. Ill check the map next time I drive it. Which PID is it to check the MAP?

It's labeled as MAP...