What'd you do to your accord today?

RedRyder

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Used it to start the Venza, hope it just needs a new battery. Need to check if the warranty covers that...

Does anybody know if the Homelink in the 6GA can work with a rolling code garage door opener? When I got our new opener I tried programming the Homelink to it, but it didn't work. I'm wanting to try again, but not sure if there's different versions (older/newer) of this...
 
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604ACCORD

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I had this issue with my van the problem was my building transmitter which I tried to use to program my home link only transmits the signal for a second or 2 then stops and u have to press it again. The home link needs a solid signal to capture so what I did was buy a universal transmitter (that continues to transmit along as u hold the button)from home depot and program that to the door and then to the home link. Hope this helps
 

kn0x47

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Finally have functional cruise control again. unsoldered the factory switch connector, flipped it over, and soldered it to the rsx switch. now it's functional and plug and play
 

RedRyder

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Driver side PFM is wired and working. Tried fishing the glass heater wires through that black flextube between the door and side of the dash, but didn't have much luck. Anyone else fed wires through there before?

I had this issue with my van the problem was my building transmitter which I tried to use to program my home link only transmits the signal for a second or 2 then stops and u have to press it again. The home link needs a solid signal to capture so what I did was buy a universal transmitter (that continues to transmit along as u hold the button)from home depot and program that to the door and then to the home link. Hope this helps

Thanks, I will have to try that if I can't get it to sync. The manual for my opener says it transmits for 30 seconds. Got a name or link for the universal transmitter?
 
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Sketch o5

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Driver side PFM is wired and working. Tried fishing the glass heater wires through that black flextube between the door and side of the dash, but didn't have much luck. Anyone else fed wires through there before?

yeah, it's a pain in the ass :lawl: it has been plenty of years since i did, but i think at least one end is sealed/taped off :thinking: might be the side that's under the dash? i'm not entirely sure, sorry. i used it to route a wire to the outside of the car and i went through that door wire loom thing, but i can't remember if i had to poke it through something on the inside of the car to get into the loom or if it was just open.
 

RedRyder

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^You're right, I think it's the dash end. And it feels closed, or has an extra layer of rubber sealing it...it's very tight trying to get anything in there. The problem is that area has two thicknesses of metal spaced apart. So I can reach through the fuse area and feel the hole in the first metal wall, but the rubber end of that tube is situated in the second metal wall which is recessed inside by maybe 1" or so. If that makes sense. So I can get a few fingers through there, but not much room to work.

I took out the end that goes into the door, that's easy enough if you take out the speaker. I think I'm going to have to take out the other end to get the wires through, just nervous about being able to get it back in with the limited access I have to it. I hate to cut up the tube to make fishing the wires easier, especially since I couldn't find it on a parts diagram. Just gonna have to tinker with it more.
 

TedMicer

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Going through hell

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Nam1911a1

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I brought home some rubber foam pipe insulation and wrapped my compressor line for the air conditioning. It struck me how much heat was getting to the line after popping my hood after driving with the air on and seeing condensation on the bare line. I put my hand on it and it was ice cold. I said no no. I gotta make this more efficient.

No more exposed refrigerant line.
 
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