J30A AT to MT swap in the cards?

[jbl]

Yeah, like I said, this is a car that was literally already at the scrap heap when we found her (high rear end collision). She ain't ever gonna be pretty and her life as a commuter is done. So, we're going to do what we can to get what useful life is left in her.

A transmission rebuild would be nice, but in reality, I'm not even sure if that's the main part of our problem. Like I said, we never got high into the RPMs, never really 'bounced' the rev limiter, though it did make a similar sound. Even when it made that noise, the needle didn't bounce around and it certainly didn't reach any higher than 5k (maybe even like 4500?). So I don't know if that's a separate problem or, more likely, it's an end-user issue (i.e. we don't know what we're doing).

NOS is possible (theoretically), but I'm not sure we'd want to use that until late Sunday. Homemade turbos were also kicked around, but it's remedial math students doing trigonometry at that point (like pulling and rebuilding a transmission is any easier).

In the end though, it's nobody's daily driver and nothing is scheduled for her, so we can take apart, rebuild, take out, etc., whatever we want.

I'd still love to get opinions from everyone on 6gen about what's wrong, what happened and what's next. Work is nowhere near as fun as this is.

 

[blur]

I've never thought a CG v6 would end up in le mons! I've chatted online with a guy who runs an integra in le mons... here's what he told me about it

The "average internet value" of the car has to be $500, proven by craigslist advertisements. We have 15k in the car probably. Engine rebuilt with new parts, suspension arms checked and replaced as needed, all balljoints replaced, shocks replaced, all new bushings, new brakes (lines and calipers, rotors/pads changed often of course), etc. Seat is mounted to the cage directly, not the car. We use a HANS as well. Honestly, I've done racing with NASA and SCCA for other expensive series with cars I didn't build.. this car is safer than any of them. The ChumpCar guys don't even bother checking our safety gear anymore and the first time it goes through a new guy in tech all he comments on is "finally, this is how it's supposed to be done". They have definately had some unsafe ****boxes roll through, and in LeMons I've even raced some, but you don't have to do that ChumpCar is actually taking a lot of steps to make it even safer We never race up near you (the most north we ever go is Virginia) but if we ever do I'll let you know

(me)Aftermarket replacements or factory? And 15k is a far cry from $500, lol. Oh and thanks for the invite, I'll have to check it out.(/me)

Factory. Mods/aftermarket parts add money.

At this point it's basically a new 220,000 mile Integra.. at least mechanically.

Since a single race is about (or sometimes more) than a full season of regular racing it's known that the car will need to be rebuilt. For the motor we had to bore it out (ovaled cylinders) and run new factory pistons, also put in new factory valves, valvesprings and retainers. Also had to machine the crank slightly. Balanced the bottom end and had to shave the head due to a cooling system failure (and a driver not looking at the temp gauge). Suspension arms, balljoints, bearings, etc are all new OEM Honda, etc.

A true $500 racecar doesn't exist even if you buy a car for $500, the cage will be 500-2000, the brakes will be replaced, if you are smart any completely worn components will be replaced before it ever sees the track, etc.

Our initial build was about 6500, the rest is rebuilding/fixing over 2+ years of racing (about 7000 miles of racing).

 

[Lboogy*CnTX]

Take the ac out of it... and any other luxury components driven.. by the motor that u dont need?? Ground or add grounds to ur motor... work on intake/exhaust components read an aricle in nopi describing the capabilitie s of this motor just by opening up where restr....icted... and since ur not trying to go pretty... hell u can go to lowes get some pvc pipe and couplings clamps build ur own intake... if the car isn't street driven run 2.5 -3in straight exhaust pipe no cat no reson... and take the cone off and clamp a mesh ...screen

 

[jbl]

blur:

There were a couple (at least one) Integras out there. They're FAST. As you can see from your friend, this ain't going to be a simple summer project. Assuming I can keep my team involved, this is going to take some time...we just started with a somewhat crappy base car. This is also the fun of Lemons and Chump Car...making things faster than they were meant to be (safely). I know we're not getting anywhere near $500 on this...hell, we're close to $4k as it is now with fees, gear and parts. At least a lot of it will be one time purcases (the helmet, for example). What we lack the most of, however, is know-how and mechanical ability. None of us are afraid to try while we hunch over the service manual for hours on end, but this is why I'm here...more know-how than we have.

Lboogy*CnTX:

AC is still in there. In all honesty, I wasn't completely sure what to take out and what to leave alone. I worry about a domino effect (real or made up in my mind) where I unhook one thing that in-turn, requires me to fix 5 more. Some have even mentioned using part of it for the transmission cooler. Same thing with the exhaust...we have it down to a single 2" Cherry Bomb coming out in front of passenger rear, but the cat is still connnected...we weren't sure what to do with the O2 sensor in there (I guess weld a bung into the Cherry Bomb?). The intake is opened up significantly at least, with, like you said, tubing found around the shop and a used cone, but I hadn't thought about just screening (NJMP can get dusty though). The exhaust manifolds remain simply because of how worn out the bolts look. If I snap a bolt back in there, it doesn't look like I'll be able to tap a new one without pulling the engine first for clearance.

And what would the extra grounds do in addition to good(?) grounds already existing?

 

[SykVSyx]

The 'Big Three' grounding is always recommended because it helps maintain higher voltage.

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1487&highlight=big+grounding

 

[jbl]

The 'Big Three' grounding is always recommended because it helps maintain higher voltage.

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1487&highlight=big+grounding

Innnnnnnteresting. Thank you for that. Like I said...would've had no idea to search for that, so I appreciate the help and all of the answers. Keep them coming as well as any questions...I'll keep up on the thread as well with what we're doing/planning (still 5 other guys to confer with before we do any work).

What can I do with the cat and the O2? Like I said, can I just plumb it into the Cherry Bomb and open it up a little bit more? I imagine removing the O2 altogether is going to wreak havoc on the car's computer, no? I can't say that the car felt choked, but at the same time....only 105? There's about 2,000 ft of non-braking straight after the lightbulb turn at NJMP (Lightning), and I was consistantly coming out of that turn ~80mph.

 

[SykVSyx]

There are guys that are far more knowledgeable about that than I, so hopefully they will post in here and let you know.

Can't hurt to Google some of your questions either though, I can almost guarantee some Forum out there has the answers.

 

[RedRyder]

You could gut the cat, get a high flow, or just straight pipe back to the mufflers. The latter of which would not sound great, and may violate noise limit regs if there are any. But you'll start to lose power if you open up the exhaust a lot with nothing pushing more through.

 

[jbl]

Can't hurt to Google some of your questions either though, I can almost guarantee some Forum out there has the answers.

Definitely how I ended up here, but I keep chugging along on the internet, hoping to learn more everyday when things get slow here at the office.

You could gut the cat, get a high flow, or just straight pipe back to the mufflers. The latter of which would not sound great, and may violate noise limit regs if there are any. But you'll start to lose power if you open up the exhaust a lot with nothing pushing more through.

Right, which is why I intially thought that going with a single 2" cherry bomb would give me close to the same backpressure as two outlets that were more restrictive...didn't want to go too high and certainly not too low. I didn't think about just gutting the cat outright though. Still, my concern lies with the ECU and the O2 sensor...I just want them all to play nice with eachother. I suppose emptying out the cat and leaving the O2 sensor in there would be OK.

We are required to have a muffler, but some of the cars passing tech were WAAAAY louder than us...I think we can get away with a lot more noise at this point.

 

[Lboogy*CnTX]

^^definitely need back pressure with these... how ur losing in the straights i Dnt understand cuz they pull hard at high rpm... unless u have an exhaust leak lol like wen i ****ed my headers... where do u live because ill straight give them to u after i put my turbo on... needs new gaskets and the y pipe needs to b repaired..