TCC Solenoid
- Thread starter uhhkilleez
- Start date
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
The info posted was with regards to the code YOU posted YOU were getting. I have no gain or loss if you take my advice or not as at the end of the day it is your car...i'm just trying to help since you inquired.
The part#s above are from a 2000 v6 ex accord and so is the diagram. I would think you should be able to distinguish what your transmission looks like if you're going to pull sensors/solenoids off of it. You can confirm the part#s yourself if you wanted to by going to hondapartscheap.com ... punching in your accord model and looking at what you get.
The v6 and some i4 trannys on 98-02 accords are known to fail like the plague. That is why it is rather recommended to drain and fill the tranny fluid with ONLY oem atfdw1 at least once a year. If the tranny has already developed an issue though...then draining and refilling the fluid may not do much or it may. It is a rather cheap gamble I would think to just buy 3-4 bottles of OEM atfdw1 and check. It is also the cheapest option to try. However this WILL NOT make your code go away.
The code you are getting relates to the sensors I mentioned above; however once again as mentioned it could be that it is the tranny and not the sensors. You can also test the sensors with an ohm meter if you'd like prior to changing them. For the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B you must measure 5 ohms between the #1 and #2 pins. For the other solenoid,Torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A, resistance between pin#1 and ground should be 12-25ohms. between pin#2 and ground should be 12-25ohms. you can also connect each pin to battery pos(+) and a clicking sound should be heard.
I would personally recommend anyone to change their 2nd/3rd clutch pressure switches once a year along with their tranny drain and refill after seeing the great difference it made for me when changing them out. I had a slight hit when going into second when cold which fully went away and became buttery smooth.
Lastly if changing the sensors does not fix your problem...you can always swap them over to the new(used) tranny you get if you decide to install a new(used) tranny on the car.
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ok...i typed in my vin# on that website and the diagram is just a little different than yours
i checked under my hood and it seems that (using your diagram's numbers) #8 and #10 both have been replaced im thinking. they both have that infamous yellow marking from the junkyard. #8 is just under the driver side of the intake manifold under the radiator hose, and #10 is closer the driver side fender...if im looking at this right.
i literally bought this car last week, and im unsure how the previous owner treated this car. he did give me receipts for a lot of work under the hood like crankshaft sensor, timing belt, water pump, etc...
anyways, ill guess ill pull the sensors off, clean em up, drain the fluid and replace with honda fluid and see what happens. thanks for your input.
i checked under my hood and it seems that (using your diagram's numbers) #8 and #10 both have been replaced im thinking. they both have that infamous yellow marking from the junkyard. #8 is just under the driver side of the intake manifold under the radiator hose, and #10 is closer the driver side fender...if im looking at this right.
i literally bought this car last week, and im unsure how the previous owner treated this car. he did give me receipts for a lot of work under the hood like crankshaft sensor, timing belt, water pump, etc...
anyways, ill guess ill pull the sensors off, clean em up, drain the fluid and replace with honda fluid and see what happens. thanks for your input.
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
What's your vin#?
As that diagram is supposed to be for a 2000 accord v6.
and before you pull them off...test them. If they test out ok it could just be that it is...your...transmission.
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001Stunna
Well-Known Member
You're doing something wrong as its the exact same stuff
hondapartscheap.com>enter vin>go to transmision>go to at sensor solenoid>
What the site says for your VIN# (the exact same part numbers...but the numbers in relation for the picture are -1)
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B
1x 9 28250-P6H-024 SOLENOID ASSY., LINEAR
3x 16 91301-PC9-003 O-RING (7.7X2.3) (ARAI)
1x 10 28252-PAX-000 GASKET, LINEAR SOLENOID
1x 3 22750-P7Z-000 PIPE (8X18)
1x 4 22760-P7Z-000 PIPE (8X26)
1x 5 22770-P7Z-000 PIPE (8X36)
Torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A
1x 7 28200-P0Z-003 SOLENOID ASSY., SHIFT
Recommended clutch pressure switches
2x 13 28600-P7Z-003 SWITCH ASSY., OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
2x 15 90471-PW7-A00 GASKET (10MM)
What i mentioned above
ok..well thats what i meant when i said the diagram is a little different than yours (being -1)..
so its about $500 bucks give or take...ouch. i guess ill get to testing the ones i have, because it looks as if someone has already tried replacing them.
so its about $500 bucks give or take...ouch. i guess ill get to testing the ones i have, because it looks as if someone has already tried replacing them.
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
You can use the $500 towards the new tranny...spending time and testing never costs any money. As long as you're careful and don't break something...somehow..
mister_two
Member
1x 28250-P6H-024 Solenoid assembly
3x 91301-PC9-003 O-Ring
3x 22750-P6H-000
1x 28252-PAX-000 gasket
Bought the above parts from majestic Honda and replaced the parts this weekend. Once the battery and the tray is removed everything is accessible. The most difficult part was removing the old paper gasket. Also did a drain and fill of Honda ATF, just for good measure.
Did this fix the problem? I wish I could give a definitive YES but I don't want to jinx myself. I test drove it for about 30 mins and have not seen the previous symptoms. No CEL, at least not yet. Transmission appears to be shifting normal, maybe a slight hesitation once or twice. The previous symptoms were very obvious - beside the CEL and the blinking D4 - 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts were very late and it did not feel like the transmission was downshifting back to 1st. When I came to a complete stop the car would buckle. None of that has happened yet after the new parts. I will know in the next few days as I plan to turn the Accord back into my daily driver.
Also, once I got the old solenoid out I tested the pins for ohms and they tested normal at 5 ohms. I don't know if this means the old part was good or not. As I stated before the original problem may have been hot/cold related. Perhaps the old solenoid was defective once it got hot? Who knows.
