water in sparkplug hole

bonestockcoupe

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After car overheated from leaking rad hose under throttlebody.fixed it then car cranks but doesnt start.when it does start it stumbles then shuts off after shaking real bad.check fuel pressure via fuel pump to banjo nut.its got good pressure. Then check plugs for spark , its also firing.tried to check compression with old compression tester .dont know if its faulty or not from it being old.crank car ran out to check pressure, nothing.should i have a helper look at gauge or does pressure stays on.im stomp!when taking sparkplug 1 and 3 out i found water on the bottom of the sparkplug where voltage is conducted. .is this normal from condensation? Oil cap isnt milky and it smells like dirty oil.coolant is still top off when i added it.sparkplugs were change 3. Mnths ago it does have sorta gas and oil smell to it.the old plugs had white pinkish residue on it that cakes of when i tap it.need to know the problem soo i can go ahead and get a new engine or fix this.what do i do!
 

james'99

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Are you sure it isn't fuel on the spark plug? Do you have a check engine light?

Depending on the nipple you use in your compression gauge, it will hold pressure or not hold pressure on the gauge and then there should be a small relief valve with a button on it.

Here is how I told someone in the past to do a compression test since they didn't have a gauge. If you have questions, let me know.

Okay, so a compression test. The only real prep you will do is pull all spark plugs. You can also simply disable fuel by disconnecting the main relay under the steering wheel so not to be injecting fuel that is not needed.

Refer here to disconnect main relay...

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50047

You may disconnect the distributor if you'd like but not totally necessary.

Now, doing a compression test will check one cylinder at a time.

You know that you hear a sort of resistance when you go to start your car. We count "cranks". The "cranks" we hear are due to compression.

We can check compression by using a compression gauge.

CompressionTester.jpg


Assuming you don't have this, we will do a rough compression test. Instead of using this gauge, we will go based on hearing and observation making this more of a qualitative test then a quantitative test which should theoretically offer results that are viable to diagnose this issue. In a regular compression test, we would do a consistent number of cranks across all the cylinders for consistency. While it is still good practice here, it is not totally necessary because there is no gauge to record the compression. Now. An engine with no spark plugs has no compression and will sound like its just turning over at a constant speed. Kind of like this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_OeRk7o0lI

But with one spark plug in, it will sound like cranking, unless there is no compression. If it sounds like it is cranking much easier on one cylinder than another, in your case cyl. 1 v all the others, there is lower compression and you should probably go about a more quantitative test before condemning the engine.

So when I say one cylinder at a time, you will install a single spark plug, crank and listen. Then remove that spark plug, and install one on another cylinder and repeat the test till you get through to the end. If all of them sound the same, you have good compression and you should look to replace wires and check your injector. I don't think compression will be your issue but this is a free test.

If you want to hear what your engine personally sounds like with zero compression as a reference point, take out all spark plugs and turn the key.

Let me know if this helps and your results!

EDIT: On a side note, happy to help! As a community, we all like to save everyone money and give assistance where possible.
 

2002CG3coupe

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Pull your plugs out in all four and spray WD-40 in spark plug hole give it 24 hours it will help will the moisture/water. Also get a reliable compression tester to confirm if the motor has good compression numbers or faulty motor.
 

bonestockcoupe

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Yes i had a friend crank so i can check compression. Problem was the compression wouldnt stay up it would do a full drop in a second then up then down again as if there was a big leakage.but my readings are on the cylinders are.this is from distributor to timing belt , left to right..
150. 85to90. 120. 120.
.and never had check engine light as long as i had it for 5 mnths now.the car use to bukle and stumble around 1000to2500 rpm.but when past that it would drive fine .i will go get a better tester to make sure its concrete readings.til then ill post again when im back in town.thanks guys for taking the time to read my posts.newbie to forums , whyy didnt i join years ago is beyond me.
 

james'99

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Yes i had a friend crank so i can check compression. Problem was the compression wouldnt stay up it would do a full drop in a second then up then down again as if there was a big leakage.but my readings are on the cylinders are.this is from distributor to timing belt , left to right..
150. 85to90. 120. 120.
.and never had check engine light as long as i had it for 5 mnths now.the car use to bukle and stumble around 1000to2500 rpm.but when past that it would drive fine .i will go get a better tester to make sure its concrete readings.til then ill post again when im back in town.thanks guys for taking the time to read my posts.newbie to forums , whyy didnt i join years ago is beyond me.

Welcome buddy! I don't like those numbers too much. Have some jumper cables? Hook up to another running car to maintain the charge on the battery thorough the testing. They should all be within 10% of one another.
 

bonestockcoupe

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I got a new tester and just sprayed it with wd40.oh yeah when i start it a battery charger was connected to it.:so batt is fine.canceling my insurance, why pay when i cant drive it plus i have a feeling it will be down for awhile.
:Boo:
 

james'99

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I got a new tester and just sprayed it with wd40.oh yeah when i start it a battery charger was connected to it.:so batt is fine.canceling my insurance, why pay when i cant drive it plus i have a feeling it will be down for awhile.
:Boo:

What are the latest results?
 
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