CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
Re: What did you do today Detailing related?
No problem. I'm glad one of my "go to" products worked out for your situation as well.
In terms of a systematical order, it would go:
Wash
Claybar
Rinse with water to get all the gunk off from claying
Test spot with Meg Ulti compound followed up with Swirl X
If you like the results you see on the test spot, do the rest of the car
Wax it afterwards
The detailing industry is very vague when it comes to terminology due to not being standardized. When someone tells me they are going to use a polishing compound, it literally means "rocks in a bottle" to me because of all the 3M polishing compound in body shops. The formula for their compound is meant to cut fast in order to be time efficient, but they do not finish down well and it leaves lots of swirls, and micromarring.
But, pretty much they all do the same thing in terms of compound, polish, and finishing polish. All 3 abrade the surface of the paint film with abrasives in order to level the paint. I am sure that person meant compound which is the most aggressive polishing liquids you can get. The Meg Ulti compound you have is already a compound. Now unless you are not happy with the level of correction you are getting with it by hand, then you will need another compound that can provide more "cut" to level the paint.
Give the above process a shot first before buying something else because I know the auto parts store only sells Meg Ulti compound as the most aggressive OTC product there is. Otherwise you will need to buy online.
I would recommend getting a Harbor Freight 6" DA if money is tight. Griots Garage 6" would be my 2nd recommendation if you have a little bit extra. Both are excellent machines.
If you are on a budget, the best bang for buck atm would be the Griots Garage 6" DA or the Harbor Freight 6" DA. I currently own the HF DA and put about 20 hrs of polishing on it so far, and still works like a champ. I would definitely recommend going the HF DA if you are really on a budget.
If I may ask, is there a reason why you jumped from 140 grit to 2000 grit without using something in between to refine the deep scratches left by the 140 grit?
Nice job on getting 1/3 of the car done haha. It takes a good amount of time to "do things properly". In time you will be more comfortable with the process and you will get faster before you know it.
So I've got another question for you. By the way, interior stuff you recommended was fantastic. Thanks so much for that
I'm going to do a whole exterior detail now.
Here's what I'm working with:
Meg's Gold Class Car Wash
Mother's Clay Bar
Meg's Swirl X
Meg's Ultimate Compound
And some Carnauba Wax at the end
Someone also recommended to me a polishing compound also, havent heard much about this.
Good route to take?
Doing this all by hand, no DA polisher. Need to get me one of those
No problem. I'm glad one of my "go to" products worked out for your situation as well.
In terms of a systematical order, it would go:
Wash
Claybar
Rinse with water to get all the gunk off from claying
Test spot with Meg Ulti compound followed up with Swirl X
If you like the results you see on the test spot, do the rest of the car
Wax it afterwards
The detailing industry is very vague when it comes to terminology due to not being standardized. When someone tells me they are going to use a polishing compound, it literally means "rocks in a bottle" to me because of all the 3M polishing compound in body shops. The formula for their compound is meant to cut fast in order to be time efficient, but they do not finish down well and it leaves lots of swirls, and micromarring.
But, pretty much they all do the same thing in terms of compound, polish, and finishing polish. All 3 abrade the surface of the paint film with abrasives in order to level the paint. I am sure that person meant compound which is the most aggressive polishing liquids you can get. The Meg Ulti compound you have is already a compound. Now unless you are not happy with the level of correction you are getting with it by hand, then you will need another compound that can provide more "cut" to level the paint.
Give the above process a shot first before buying something else because I know the auto parts store only sells Meg Ulti compound as the most aggressive OTC product there is. Otherwise you will need to buy online.
I would recommend getting a Harbor Freight 6" DA if money is tight. Griots Garage 6" would be my 2nd recommendation if you have a little bit extra. Both are excellent machines.
WOW
time for me to buy a DA polisher lol
If you are on a budget, the best bang for buck atm would be the Griots Garage 6" DA or the Harbor Freight 6" DA. I currently own the HF DA and put about 20 hrs of polishing on it so far, and still works like a champ. I would definitely recommend going the HF DA if you are really on a budget.
I polished my exhaust tip, for one reason or another it was painted the same color as my car.
[Tools used]
* 60 grit sandpaper
* 140 grit sandpaper
* 2000 grit sandpaper
* water
* Elbow Grease
If I may ask, is there a reason why you jumped from 140 grit to 2000 grit without using something in between to refine the deep scratches left by the 140 grit?
I tried to detail my car today, fuuuuu
So ya, roof, hood, trunk lid, washed, clay'd, waxed. Tomorrow, I'll do the sides. I was going to do the whole thing, but that took ~5hrs. The clay was new when I started, and might be dead when I'm done!
Nice job on getting 1/3 of the car done haha. It takes a good amount of time to "do things properly". In time you will be more comfortable with the process and you will get faster before you know it.