What to look for in a 2002 Accord?

[JTM]

So just so I get this right, the transmission should smoothly go into drive, and smoothly go into reverse. I'm so used to my 91' that is known for having a hard shift.

Thanks!

 

[mkdb89-02se]

my 90 5speed shifted smooth except for 3rd lol, sold it at 295k miles

 

[001Stunna]

So just so I get this right, the transmission should smoothly go into drive, and smoothly go into reverse. I'm so used to my 91' that is known for having a hard shift.

Thanks!

From P->R , as you move the shifter, you should feel the tranny kick in within 1 second delay max. From R->N you should somewhat feel the tranny disengage. From N->D you should once again feel the tranny engage within 1 second.

You will still feel that kick or or thump but it should be smooth, it shouldn't jolt you to the point where you'll spill the coffee if you had one in your hand.

As you're driving, try driving easy and driving somewhat hard.

Ie. from a stop feather the gas to about keeping it pressed about 1-2cm max. Watch the rpm gauge(and the street****) and notice the shifts...are they smooth? Does the tranny switch gears at around 2-3k rpm or go into the higher ranges even when you're light on the gas. From what i've noticed on my car i think it catches fourth gear/last gear about 80km/h so about 50mp/h

Then from a stop start easy on the gas, followed by further pressing on the gas, somewhat half pressed. Does the tranny still switch gears smoothly? Does it hold any gears for too long? ie. from 2nd to 3rd the rpms hit as high as 5-6 even though you're not going WOT.

After the above drive up to 80km/h or 50mp/h and then come to a stop. Do you feel the tranny down-shift after you've already stopped?


Thats all i can think of in means of testing the transmission.

In the addition from the above you should also get an idea if the car has any alignment problems or needs a brake job...if it pulls to a side when hard braking, or if the steering wheel weaves to one side when traveling at 40-50mp/h or above or if it simply drags a few meters even though you've pressed the brakes.

 

[Vomit_Comit]

try to get one with less miles like 130k

 

[JTM]

From P->R , as you move the shifter, you should feel the tranny kick in within 1 second delay max. From R->N you should somewhat feel the tranny disengage. From N->D you should once again feel the tranny engage within 1 second.

You will still feel that kick or or thump but it should be smooth, it shouldn't jolt you to the point where you'll spill the coffee if you had one in your hand.

As you're driving, try driving easy and driving somewhat hard.

Ie. from a stop feather the gas to about keeping it pressed about 1-2cm max. Watch the rpm gauge(and the street****) and notice the shifts...are they smooth? Does the tranny switch gears at around 2-3k rpm or go into the higher ranges even when you're light on the gas. From what i've noticed on my car i think it catches fourth gear/last gear about 80km/h so about 50mp/h

Then from a stop start easy on the gas, followed by further pressing on the gas, somewhat half pressed. Does the tranny still switch gears smoothly? Does it hold any gears for too long? ie. from 2nd to 3rd the rpms hit as high as 5-6 even though you're not going WOT.

After the above drive up to 80km/h or 50mp/h and then come to a stop. Do you feel the tranny down-shift after you've already stopped?


Thats all i can think of in means of testing the transmission.

In the addition from the above you should also get an idea if the car has any alignment problems or needs a brake job...if it pulls to a side when hard braking, or if the steering wheel weaves to one side when traveling at 40-50mp/h or above or if it simply drags a few meters even though you've pressed the brakes.

Thanks for the clarification, you've been a great help. Would you recommend I give this car a chance? You seem to know your stuff. If this was a CB7 I'd definitely give it a chance because it would be cheaper and their transmissions are amazing. I just don't know too much about this generation.

 

[001Stunna]

Thanks for the clarification, you've been a great help. Would you recommend I give this car a chance? You seem to know your stuff. If this was a CB7 I'd definitely give it a chance because it would be cheaper and their transmissions are amazing. I just don't know too much about this generation.

Well theres a few factors at play. I still think you should consider it and look at it. After all by just looking at it, you're not BUYING it right there. It all depends on how everything turns out; nonetheless it cannot hurt you to check it out.

Make sure you look at/test everything mentioned in here; check the car for rust etc.

One thing i'm not sure of and cannot really tell you "this" or "that" is when it comes to its value as it depends how much the same model/year cars are going for in YOUR area. Look around on places such as autotrader kijiji craigslist and see how much 2001, 2002 accords are selling for with around the same mileage or less then the one you're looking for. Try and do this prior to going to check out the car so when you get there and if everything seems in proper order and you've asked all the info you need, then you can just directly tell the seller
"I like the car, i've done my research and have seen that these cars are going for this $$$$ locally, i understand the car has been taken care of and this is what i can offer to buy it at".

 

[JTM]

Well theres a few factors at play. I still think you should consider it and look at it. After all by just looking at it, you're not BUYING it right there. It all depends on how everything turns out; nonetheless it cannot hurt you to check it out.

Make sure you look at/test everything mentioned in here; check the car for rust etc.

One thing i'm not sure of and cannot really tell you "this" or "that" is when it comes to its value as it depends how much the same model/year cars are going for in YOUR area. Look around on places such as autotrader kijiji craigslist and see how much 2001, 2002 accords are selling for with around the same mileage or less then the one you're looking for. Try and do this prior to going to check out the car so when you get there and if everything seems in proper order and you've asked all the info you need, then you can just directly tell the seller
"I like the car, i've done my research and have seen that these cars are going for this $$$$ locally, i understand the car has been taken care of and this is what i can offer to buy it at".

I've done some craigslist work and it seems that 4k is a fair price. The KBB is around 5200 in great condition. So, like you said it all will depend on how it plays out.

Thanks again!

 

[001Stunna]

I've done some craigslist work and it seems that 4k is a fair price. The KBB is around 5200 in great condition. So, like you said it all will depend on how it plays out.

Thanks again!

After running a KBB for Hartford, Connecticut thats what i got to
Excellent
$5,115
Good
$4,615
Fair
$3,815
...which made think "damnnnn", they are going for only 3k CAD in here.

Anyz, depending on how things seem to you once you take a look at the car...asking if the seller is willing to be negotiable on the price never hurt anyone. Best of luck man.

 

[JTM]

After running a KBB for Hartford, Connecticut thats what i got to
Excellent
$5,115
Good
$4,615
Fair
$3,815
...which made think "damnnnn", they are going for only 3k CAD in here.

Anyz, depending on how things seem to you once you take a look at the car...asking if the seller is willing to be negotiable on the price never hurt anyone. Best of luck man.

Yeah, same results I got. I figure 4k is fair considering I've heard great things. I will see what I can do, I'll keep the thread updated as well.

 

[JTM]

I have a quick question. Is the V6 the only model that has the slanted/curved backend?