AllGOnoSHOW
Well-Known Member
AllGOnoSHOW's SCCA 02 Accord Coupe V6 6M/T
- Thread starter AllGOnoSHOW
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Elite1JDM
Well-Known Member
AllGOnoSHOW
Well-Known Member
Yeah I'll call ASAP to get that 1500+ bucks
Trust me lol. Just got a new job as well working mantainence at Walmart
And I will be going back to school for design next Fall semester.
AllGOnoSHOW
Well-Known Member
Called today and the woman who does my retirement account from my previous job is sending me the paperwork in order to cash out my frozen retirement fund. Should arrive in a couple days, then I'll send it to be notarized and then the money will be unfrozen.
I am not 100% sure how much is in the account so we'll see I think they have to take out some taxes.
Need seat / brackets 400bucks
steering wheel - not more than 100 bucks for the quick release and wheel
Harness bar 150
harness
helmet
SCCA fees
Also started my new job yesterday which I'll be keeping while I go to school and also should be getting quite a bit of money for school (looking like I'll be able to go to tech school for free and have money to spend on the side for living expenses.
Good things are soon to come!
O and once the car gos on the track I will be raising it up some, removing the front lip, and removing all the decals but my website and us129 decals / and Tint. And of course I will have my name and numbers decaled to my windows. Also I will be removing the batter from my trunk and adding a cut off butterfly switch and mounting it where my back seats were.
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Putting these links here for reference. So many rules to follow for seats etc
http://www.soloperformance.com/Sabelt-Racer-Duo-FIA-Approved-Racing-Seat_p_2130.html
http://www.soloperformance.com/SPARCO-Sprint-5-FIA-Rated-Seat_p_2054.html
http://www.soloperformance.com/UltraShield-Latch-and-Link-SFI-161-6-Point-Harness_p_1548.html
http://www.racinghelmetguide.com/helmets-from-200-to-300.html - I need an SA2010 helmet (check pepboys
)
http://www.soloracer.com/seats.html
we currently accept M2000, M2005, M2010, SA1995, SA 2000, SA2005, K1995, K2000 and K2005. The M1995 helmets are obsolete but the SA 1995 and K1995 are still legal since the SA2010 and K2010 are not yet available.
http://pitstopusa.com
Open-faced or closed-faced?
This is a personal preference. Try on one of each to see what is comfortable. When sizing helmets, a helmet should be snug enough not to flop around when you shake your head, but comfortable enough to wear while watching TV for 30 minutes. The SCCA recommends that drivers of cars with a driver's side airbag use an open-faced helmet, in case the airbag deploys.
What kind of helmet do I need for autocross?
The ETR has loaner helmets that are available to new competitors. You will have to pick up the helmet just before each of your runs and return it immediately after each run, as we don’t have enough for everyone to keep one during the event.
You will probably want to buy your own helmet if you run many events. A helmet that meets the SCCA’s rules can be purchased for $50 to $100 dollars.
The current SCCA rules require the helmets to have a Snell rating 2000, 1995, or 1990. Snell usually releases standards every five years and the SCCA requires the current standard or the two previous, so in 2005 the 1990 helmets will no longer be usable (you will need a 2005, 2000, or 1995). Snell also has sub-ratings. The SCCA accepts M (motorcycle) and SA (Special Application). This may sound a bit confusing, so I’ve included a list of the currently accepted combinations below:
Snell 2000 (SA or M)
Snell 1995 (SA or M)
Snell 1990 (SA or M)
Please note that helmets that only have a DOT (Department of Transportation) rating are not legal in Solo II. Some helmets have both a DOT and a Snell rating, and they would be acceptable providing that the Snell rating meets the criteria outlined above. Also, the M helmets are usually much cheaper than the SA helmets. The SA helmets are required for road racing because they are rated for multiple impacts and have fire resistant linings. If you think you may want to do some road racing you may want to consider spending the extra money for a SA helmet (M’s aren’t legal for road courses). Also, the newer helmets weigh less than the older ones, so the latest rating will probably be easier on your neck. Most of the on-line vendors have a sizing chart so that you can measure your head and get the correct helmet. Local vendors will usually be more expensive, but you can try the helmet on before buying.
http://www.helmetcity.com
http://www.solotime.com
http://www.racerwholesale.com
http://www.ridegear.com
http://www.newportcycleparts.com
I need numbers on the side of my car?
The people running timing and scoring have to be able to identify your car quickly. This is why the class and number must be listed on your car. If you are a novice, we will provide free numbers and letters made from paper, which can be taped to your car.
However, once you have run an event or two, you will be expected to have your own magnetic numbers.
The SCCA’s rules for the class/numbers are:
All cars must have car numbers and class letters on both sides. Car numbers will be a minimum of eight inches high and a minimum of 1-1/4 inch stroke. Class letters should be smaller. Both must be of a uniform color and in contrast to the color of the car. All letters and numbers must be on body panels, not on windows, and only one set of numbers may be visible while the car is running. For cars entered in a Ladies’ Class the letter “L” shall follow the class letters (Example: ASL).
I’ll add a few clarifications. The class letters should be about half the size of the numbers, give or take a little. The part about only one set of numbers may be visible while the car is running means that if you are running a two driver car, you must switch numbers between runs. Otherwise it is hard for timing/scoring to figure out who is driving the cars. Additionally, novice drivers need to have an “N” before their class and Pro drivers need a “P”.
The whole point behind the numbers is so that timing/scoring can quickly identify your car while it is on course and give you the correct time when you finish. We will not nitpick the rules on this as long as we can easily read your class and car number while your car is running on the course. When we can’t identify a car, it slows the whole event down because we have to stop cars from running while we figure it out. It is also to your advantage to have correct identification on your car, as it greatly reduces the chance that your times will be recorded incorrectly.
National Registry
http://www.scca.org/getstarted/mem_info.html#application
Before any car can run, it must be inspected to make sure it is safe. The basics of the inspection include:
Tires - no cord showing
Wheel bearings, shocks, steering, and suspension in good operating
condition.
Seat belts in good operating condition.
Brakes - firm pedal with no detectable drop with car not running and proper level of fluid in reservoir.
All loose items removed (radar detectors, floor mats, etc.)
Hubcaps and wheel rings removed.
All lugs present and tight.
Throttle return action safe and positive (no sticky throttles)
No excessive fluid leaks.
Battery securely bolted down.
Acceptable numbers and class designation on both sides of car.
What class is my car in?
The following web site has a great breakdown on the car classes:
http://mouton.best.vwh.net/sccasolo/
I am not 100% sure how much is in the account so we'll see
I think they have to take out some taxes.Need seat / brackets 400bucks
steering wheel - not more than 100 bucks for the quick release and wheel
Harness bar 150
harness
helmet
SCCA fees
Also started my new job yesterday which I'll be keeping while I go to school and also should be getting quite a bit of money for school (looking like I'll be able to go to tech school for free and have money to spend on the side for living expenses.
Good things are soon to come!
O and once the car gos on the track I will be raising it up some, removing the front lip, and removing all the decals but my website and us129 decals / and Tint. And of course I will have my name and numbers decaled to my windows. Also I will be removing the batter from my trunk and adding a cut off butterfly switch and mounting it where my back seats were.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Putting these links here for reference. So many rules to follow for seats etc
http://www.soloperformance.com/Sabelt-Racer-Duo-FIA-Approved-Racing-Seat_p_2130.html
http://www.soloperformance.com/SPARCO-Sprint-5-FIA-Rated-Seat_p_2054.html
http://www.soloperformance.com/UltraShield-Latch-and-Link-SFI-161-6-Point-Harness_p_1548.html
http://www.racinghelmetguide.com/helmets-from-200-to-300.html - I need an SA2010 helmet (check pepboys
)http://www.soloracer.com/seats.html
we currently accept M2000, M2005, M2010, SA1995, SA 2000, SA2005, K1995, K2000 and K2005. The M1995 helmets are obsolete but the SA 1995 and K1995 are still legal since the SA2010 and K2010 are not yet available.
http://pitstopusa.com
Open-faced or closed-faced?
This is a personal preference. Try on one of each to see what is comfortable. When sizing helmets, a helmet should be snug enough not to flop around when you shake your head, but comfortable enough to wear while watching TV for 30 minutes. The SCCA recommends that drivers of cars with a driver's side airbag use an open-faced helmet, in case the airbag deploys.
What kind of helmet do I need for autocross?
The ETR has loaner helmets that are available to new competitors. You will have to pick up the helmet just before each of your runs and return it immediately after each run, as we don’t have enough for everyone to keep one during the event.
You will probably want to buy your own helmet if you run many events. A helmet that meets the SCCA’s rules can be purchased for $50 to $100 dollars.
The current SCCA rules require the helmets to have a Snell rating 2000, 1995, or 1990. Snell usually releases standards every five years and the SCCA requires the current standard or the two previous, so in 2005 the 1990 helmets will no longer be usable (you will need a 2005, 2000, or 1995). Snell also has sub-ratings. The SCCA accepts M (motorcycle) and SA (Special Application). This may sound a bit confusing, so I’ve included a list of the currently accepted combinations below:
Snell 2000 (SA or M)
Snell 1995 (SA or M)
Snell 1990 (SA or M)
Please note that helmets that only have a DOT (Department of Transportation) rating are not legal in Solo II. Some helmets have both a DOT and a Snell rating, and they would be acceptable providing that the Snell rating meets the criteria outlined above. Also, the M helmets are usually much cheaper than the SA helmets. The SA helmets are required for road racing because they are rated for multiple impacts and have fire resistant linings. If you think you may want to do some road racing you may want to consider spending the extra money for a SA helmet (M’s aren’t legal for road courses). Also, the newer helmets weigh less than the older ones, so the latest rating will probably be easier on your neck. Most of the on-line vendors have a sizing chart so that you can measure your head and get the correct helmet. Local vendors will usually be more expensive, but you can try the helmet on before buying.
http://www.helmetcity.com
http://www.solotime.com
http://www.racerwholesale.com
http://www.ridegear.com
http://www.newportcycleparts.com
I need numbers on the side of my car?
The people running timing and scoring have to be able to identify your car quickly. This is why the class and number must be listed on your car. If you are a novice, we will provide free numbers and letters made from paper, which can be taped to your car.
However, once you have run an event or two, you will be expected to have your own magnetic numbers.
The SCCA’s rules for the class/numbers are:
All cars must have car numbers and class letters on both sides. Car numbers will be a minimum of eight inches high and a minimum of 1-1/4 inch stroke. Class letters should be smaller. Both must be of a uniform color and in contrast to the color of the car. All letters and numbers must be on body panels, not on windows, and only one set of numbers may be visible while the car is running. For cars entered in a Ladies’ Class the letter “L” shall follow the class letters (Example: ASL).
I’ll add a few clarifications. The class letters should be about half the size of the numbers, give or take a little. The part about only one set of numbers may be visible while the car is running means that if you are running a two driver car, you must switch numbers between runs. Otherwise it is hard for timing/scoring to figure out who is driving the cars. Additionally, novice drivers need to have an “N” before their class and Pro drivers need a “P”.
The whole point behind the numbers is so that timing/scoring can quickly identify your car while it is on course and give you the correct time when you finish. We will not nitpick the rules on this as long as we can easily read your class and car number while your car is running on the course. When we can’t identify a car, it slows the whole event down because we have to stop cars from running while we figure it out. It is also to your advantage to have correct identification on your car, as it greatly reduces the chance that your times will be recorded incorrectly.
National Registry
http://www.scca.org/getstarted/mem_info.html#application
Before any car can run, it must be inspected to make sure it is safe. The basics of the inspection include:
Tires - no cord showing
Wheel bearings, shocks, steering, and suspension in good operating
condition.
Seat belts in good operating condition.
Brakes - firm pedal with no detectable drop with car not running and proper level of fluid in reservoir.
All loose items removed (radar detectors, floor mats, etc.)
Hubcaps and wheel rings removed.
All lugs present and tight.
Throttle return action safe and positive (no sticky throttles)
No excessive fluid leaks.
Battery securely bolted down.
Acceptable numbers and class designation on both sides of car.
What class is my car in?
The following web site has a great breakdown on the car classes:
http://mouton.best.vwh.net/sccasolo/
Last edited:
Raul
Well-Known Member
^^nice man! Tomorrow is your birthday too!
AllGOnoSHOW
Well-Known Member
yes it is lol...
I've been researching a ton and have really narrowed down the parts I'm getting if everything works out!
i've been researching all the rules and regulations so I can race
Hopefully ill be able to run my extended studs and my rear adapter spacers because if I don't they'll see that I am missing a stud in my rear where the hole was drilled out (don't ask). They should because I'm running the correct length studs which technically make it just as safe.
I've been researching a ton and have really narrowed down the parts I'm getting if everything works out!
i've been researching all the rules and regulations so I can race
Hopefully ill be able to run my extended studs and my rear adapter spacers because if I don't they'll see that I am missing a stud in my rear where the hole was drilled out (don't ask). They should because I'm running the correct length studs which technically make it just as safe.
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im interested to know what kind of cheapass garbage knockoff bendy steering wheel youre planning on buying for less than $100. because i wouldnt put that shit on one of those fisher-price plastic toy cars...let alone a car intended for racing.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
lol wow
AllGOnoSHOW
Well-Known Member
That's crazy haha. Thanks for posting that video. You are right though, it'll be more than 100 definitely
However I'm going to go with something like this
http://www.saferacer.com/sparco/ste...&tagarray=38&gclid=CJ6llLyXya8CFYla7AodxTsddw
or
http://www.jegs.com/p/MOMO/MOMO-Ste...mode+matchall&N=1143206&Ns=P_Auxdesc1|0&Nty=0
or
http://www.momousa.com/products/products/steering-wheels/devil-steering-wheel.html
I can't just get a POS one because they won't allow me to race.
Crazy huh!
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AllGOnoSHOW
Well-Known Member
Update.
Gutted the car and made a custom bracket for controls side controls
Put on SCCA numbers on sides and back used (TN SCCA 777) since my license plate says (777-WNN)(777-win)
Paperwork has been sent and waiting to sign for my retirement money from one of my accounts from a previous job so...
once the paperwork gets signed I'll be purchasing
steering wheel
seat
harness
harness bar
helmet
hopefully new brake pads
painting wheels black.
In the street modified bracket I can run spacers and extended studs.
http://www.kirkeyracing.com/index.php?link=browse&code=Series47#nogo
I'm looking to go with aluminum seats
Gutted the car and made a custom bracket for controls side controls
Put on SCCA numbers on sides and back used (TN SCCA 777) since my license plate says (777-WNN)(777-win)
Paperwork has been sent and waiting to sign for my retirement money from one of my accounts from a previous job so...
once the paperwork gets signed I'll be purchasing
steering wheel
seat
harness
harness bar
helmet
hopefully new brake pads
painting wheels black.
In the street modified bracket I can run spacers and extended studs.
http://www.kirkeyracing.com/index.php?link=browse&code=Series47#nogo
I'm looking to go with aluminum seats
Last edited:
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