"Big Three / Grounding Kit" - Improving your electrical grounds

Wildman

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This isn't meant to be a DIY so much as a supplement to the DIY found here

Intake, exhaust, port and polish, all of these engine mods are to help your engine breathe easier so it can perform better. The same principle applies to your electrical system.

Cost: Around $30 for 3ft of 1/0 gauge wire, ring tterminals, and new battery terminals.

Time: You should probably set aside an hour or so. Could take you as little as 30 minutes, but things never work out that way lol.

The point of this mod is to upgrade your grounds so that your electrical system remains more stable. Less dimming lights, etc. This is mainly for people with audio systems, doing this upgrade will make a big difference in preventing voltage drop.

Do this before buying a new Alternator, Cap, battery, etc. Often this simple upgrade can help solve the problem and you can save yourself some money.

Parts / Tools

-Wire - What kind and what size you use is up to you. I highly recomment the P3 brand wire available from Parts Express.com, because its incredibly easy to work with. This was my first time using it - it's flexible and doesn't fray like the Rockford Fosgate crap in the rest of my car. You'll need about 3ft of wire.

As for size, I recommend just doing it right the first time and buying 1/0 gauge wire. I think it cost around $2.25/ft or so. However, if you're running a smaller system or are just really cheap you can get 2 gauge. Going 4 gauge or any smaller won't make much of a difference.

-Ring Terminals - Get whatever size to match your wire. You'll use 3, so just buy 2 pair. Make sure it is Gold or Platinum plated, other than that, you can just get what's affordable (no reason to spend $8 on a pair of ring terminals if you can get some for $1 lol)

-Sandpaper - I used 150 grit, anything will work. I wouldn't go any finer than 150 though.

-Kickass Knife / Scissors - Cutting through power wire like this can be a PAIN, so be prepared

-Wrenches - Need 10mm for battery terminals, 12mm for grounding points

-Table Vise, Vise Grip, Pliers - You're going to need something to clamp the ring terminals onto the wire. I used a table vise, and it was easy. Most people don't have one, so you might have to get creative here and resort to a big set of pliers or vise grips. Or you could solder the wire onto the terminal for a temporary solution and then bang on it when a 5lb sledge or something :lol:

-Allen wrench set - Only needed if you buy the new battery terminals listed below.

Recommend...

-New Battery Terminals - Trying to clamp the huge new grounding cable onto the stock battery terminal would be a bad idea. Possible, but not good. Save yourself the headache and Buy This for $5. If you want your battery terminals to match then you can buy the (+) to match for the same price. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND NEW BATTERY TERMINALS WHEN YOU DO THIS.

Steps / Pictures

Step One After reading through the original tutorial that I linked to at the top, you should have a pretty good idea what you're going to be doing. I'm just going to be providing some pictures of where are some easy grounding points for the 4bangers out there.

DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY (-) TERMINAL. I suggest wrapping it in cloth or a paper tower or something non-conductive so you don't have to worry about it bumping against the battery negative pole.

Step Two I decided to do the Battery - Chassis upgrade first. Here is the stock ground. There is more than 1 wire for the stock ground, I chose to upgrade the smallest because it was easiest. You can either leave the stock wire or get rid of it, I just got rid of it because it was easier.

battery_ground_before.JPG



It's important to sand down where the stock ground is so that you will be grounding to bare metal. SAND IT DOWN! You don't want to be grounding to paint. I just used some 150 grit sand paper because it's what I had laying around and it only took me maybe 30 seconds.

ground_sanded.JPG


Step Three - Figure out how much wire you'll need to go from your battery (-) to the ground, cut it, and strip both ends. One end you'll need to clamp a ring terminal onto so you can bolt it to the Chassis. If you were to cheap :lol: to buy new battery terminals, then you will need a ring terminal on the other end as well to attach it to the battery terminal.

wire_vise.JPG



Here's why I keep recommending these new battery terminals. See how easy it is to connect the new ground? So many holes to connect more wires!

new_terminal.JPG


And here's a comparison of what the old wire looks like compared to the new. Huge difference.

old_vs_new.JPG


Step Four and Five - Now it's time to upgrade the Block - Chassis ground. Because the alternator and everything else is mounted directly to the engine, any bolt on any of those components will suffice as a Block connection. After trying to crank on a few different bolts without any success, I chose location shown. I then used one of the nuts for the strut top mounts as the Chassis ground point. Once again, you need to sand the ground location by the Strut Bar or where the top mounts for the shocks bolt up. Here's a picture with arrows pointing the grounding locations.

engine_bay_8-4-05copy.jpg


You can see how flexible this P3 wire is for how big it is.

You're Done! - That's it. As you've probably figured out, I only did 2/3 of the "Big 3". You can upgrade your Alternator (+) to Battery (+) if you want to, but I don't really see the point if you don't have a High Output Alternator.
 
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dynasty

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vtec_accord99 said:
what about the hks grounding of egay?is it worth it

not worth it. it's basically a $8 product that sells over $20+.
 

shavedaccord

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DIY for the win on grounding kits..even the ones that v6p sells in my opinion are a rip off
 

ryan s

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be like it is
the v6p ones look nice and come with badass terminals, but they sell for like $120 :\
 

dynasty

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ryan s said:
the v6p ones look nice and come with badass terminals, but they sell for like $120 :\

exactly. it cost too much IMO. even though it "says" it improves hp, i'm not going to waste 120 for wires.
 

MikeyMike

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anyone have one done on a v6, curious what spots they used as ground, i know the neg off the battery goes down to the block, i've changed mine recently. or just upgrade the one that goes to the radiator support, and im curious where to put the other one 2
 
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xluben

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i don't see why you'd do the big three and not do the third part (alternator to battery).

that's where all the current is originating, so without it that's still a bottleneck. the only downside is that its a few more feet of wire and you really need to fuse it (and 1/0 fuse holders are quite expensive).

if you go to a welding supply store they should be able to cut you some wire for fairly cheap (way less than $10/ft). it'll probably be around $2/ft maybe even a bit less. of course it won't have the cool translucent jacket (it'll probably just be a plain color), but as long as the strand count is high it will be just as good.

some welding shops will even have 2/0 for marginally more. and sometimes circuit city/best buy will sell you scraps for pretty cheap (all you really need for the big three).

here you can see my big three:



i have since shortened up the ground on the right.

the blue stuff is tsunami from circuit city (got a few scraps pretty cheap).

the red wire is some car audio wire i got online (but i had to buy a whole spool to get a good price).

i have a run all the way to the trunk as well.

i bought the battery terminals, fuse holders, and fuses on ebay.

the screw down terminals i used to mount the ground were purchased at home depot.

hope these pics can help someone with a 4cyl.
 
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