Broken bolt on Cylinder head

JDM_Rook

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So the mechanic working on my car was taking the cylinder head apart, using one of those t shaped wrenches(not sure of the name), anyway took maybe a have a turn and one of the "cam/rocker/bolts" sheared off. My only option is to now take it to the Napa machine shop and see if they can fix it or not. I was looking at the one that broke and noticed it didn't even look like the same thread pitch as the other bolt, but it was the same size. Didn't think there could have possibliy been any other bolt that could be mistaken for another and installed the last time it was worked on.

It is #27 in the diagram. Would love to hear some feedback. You should be able to tell where its broken in the bottom left.

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finch13

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Shouldn't be too hard to fix, use an easy out or heat it up a bit and work it with a needle nose.

Why is it your problem to fix though? I'd be going after that meechanic!
 

HondaLuver83

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He should have worked that bolt out a little more, sometimes aluminum head and steel bolts will kind of seize together. A little heat on the bolt head or some penitrating lube would have prevented that.

You can try a grab it tool, maybe put it on a precision drill to get it out. Machine shop should be able to take care.
 

hotaccord243

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That's the mechanic's fault, have him fix it. No way in hell would i pay for my mechanics errors.

Have you tried going after him?

anyway, yeah use some easy out, heat it up and work it with a needlenose, etc. you could try drilling it out, but then you get into shavings, and re-tapping the hole, etc.
 

JDM_Rook

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Shouldn't be too hard to fix, use an easy out or heat it up a bit and work it with a needle nose.

Why is it your problem to fix though? I'd be going after that meechanic!

That's the mechanic's fault, have him fix it. No way in hell would i pay for my mechanics errors.

Have you tried going after him?

anyway, yeah use some easy out, heat it up and work it with a needlenose, etc. you could try drilling it out, but then you get into shavings, and re-tapping the hole, etc.

Well neither of the mechanics are from a legitimate place of business. Otherwise I definitely would go after them. And since one mechanic did work pervious and I have someone new working on it now, I don't know where to place the blame. First guy I have known since High School and the second(current) mechanic is my brother's wife brother. I dont feel the need to get in a heated arguement and creating tension. Hopefully it won't cost me more than a hundred dollars from the machine shop.
 

JDM_Rook

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Fixed..Napa Machine shop charged $42.00 for removal and cleaning. Threads were not crossed, just overtightened. Just more proof that torque specs are critical.

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RichBinAZ

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It's really not your mechanics fault. Steel corrodes into aluminum over time and this kind of thing happens all the time. I see it's done now, but you may have been able to tap the screw around in an anti-clockwise direction with a hammer and punch. The hammer blows would help break the corrosion bond. That was the snapping noise you heard on the other bolts.

What I do recommend is when you (or your pal) puts the bolts back in, use some anti sieze. My favorite is Suzuki chain spray (cos I have a can) but anything with molybdenum disulphide in will be good. Don't use stuff with copper, it enhances corrosion.
 
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