Building a new head for swap

boorishid

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Frist off i have an f23a4 ULEV engine. I found the same head with camshaft for 150 dollars garunteed not to be warped or cracked so i picked it up. I was looking for the a1 head but o well. Can someone please explain to me the core differences in a ULEV head vs a standard head? I hear the ULEV engines have less hp is that mostly attributed to the head?

Plan for this head is to port polish and add a new valve train with a bisi stage 2 cam. They will be doing all the tuning when im done :), smog suck but we have bisi at least.

Anyways some thoughts on the real word dangers and street ability and advice are needed. All smog crap aside i will just be doing swaps every two years. I dunno the best plan of action to take, im trying to set some goals #1 is no turbo ever just dont feel confident doing it yet!! But i have had a supercharger in mind its easier to set up, even though i know its not the best boost solution for an i4 it will give me a good bottom end and fair performance for less that a turbo and less hassle as far as building goes. If i do super it will be down the line. Anyways i was thinking of milling the head and this is where problems come to mind. Later i plan to buy a new block and either goNA with pistons, if i go that rought can i still mill the head or will the pistons hit it? whats the match for this?? If i decide to supercharge the same block with low boost, will milling the head cause problems since my compression will be higher? If i decide to stay bone stock bottom is milling the head worth it in the end will i net some good ponies from it? Or is milling a bad idea in genral?
 

HondaLuver83

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Dude no disrespect, but make more paragraphs instead of making one huge one. People on here don't like to read one big wall of text.

As far as the head, TRUST NO ONE. Take it to a machine shop and have them flow test it before it goes on your car.
 

finch13

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Flow testing is not applicable here and would be done for a valve job anyways. You want magnafluxing and a vacuum test. Take it to a machine shop first, I wouldn't expect them to charge you more than $50 to test it.

I wouldn't mill it if possible. Once you've checked the head for warping (straight edge, feeler gauges, 8 measuresments), then the machine shop can decide how much needs to be shaved off the bottom. I don't know for a fact, but I would assume anything .030" and under wouldn't be an issue, but if it's more there are headgaskets to account for shaving.
 

BlkCurrantKord

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You've got way too many ideas you're tossing around there. Take a look at the pro's/cons of each, weigh in the costs, then make a decision.
 

boorishid

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ya i was planning on having the head tested and maganfluxed before anything...

I was acually talking about milling the head down to create higher compression, just wondering if that will cause problems later on if i do hi compression pistons or a supercharger
 

sikjdm

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ya i was planning on having the head tested and maganfluxed before anything...

I was acually talking about milling the head down to create higher compression, just wondering if that will cause problems later on if i do hi compression pistons or a supercharger


there isn't a supercharger available for us 4cyl.
 

BlkCurrantKord

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ya i was planning on having the head tested and maganfluxed before anything...

I was acually talking about milling the head down to create higher compression, just wondering if that will cause problems later on if i do hi compression pistons or a supercharger


Depends on how high of compression you plan on going, but no, it really shouldnt cause any problems.

Mine was milled .015 and it's helping me put my compression right where I want it.
 

nyknick1015

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I dont think there are any major differences between the ulev and regular vtec head. Ulev has vtec kick in a little less that regular to be more fuel efficient while being more environmentally friendly. But i believe most of those changes are made in the ECU... i would search up on it tho to verify 100% tho
 

boorishid

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ya i know theres no super charger kit for our car.. doesnt mean you can buy one and drive it with the alt belt, ive talked extensively with the people at Thomas knight about how to accomplish this.

As far as milling goes im not quite sure im reading all these NA build doing .050 and your saying you did .015? Can you feel the diffrence? Does anyone know where i can do some extensive research on milling the head to so i get the outcome im looking for without causing issues?

Also what is a good piggy back set up AEM fic is suppose to be the best, but it doesnt do vtec cross over right?
 
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