clutch blown

[9450erick]

thanx guys.
im putting the spacers in right now

 

[9450erick]

so i installed the washer 2day. works perfect
engagement is like super quick
but i did take the clutch pedal out and there were to conecter there
are these important

 

[HondaLuver83]

so i installed the washer 2day. works perfect
engagement is like super quick
but i did take the clutch pedal out and there were to conecter there
are these important

I believe those would be your cruise control plug and your safety switch when you start the car.

 

[finch13]

Yeah... you should also make sure pedal free play is within spec, that is also a clutch killer.

 

[9450erick]

Yeah... you should also make sure pedal free play is within spec, that is also a clutch killer.

watttt!!!
how do u test that
cause like i have to press in the clutch all the way down and even a little lift and the gear wont go in. so im thinking the clutch is really close to the flywheel. so there not alot of free play but there is some

 

[finch13]

1. Loosen locknut (A), and back off the clutch switch (B)(or adjusting bolt) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C).

2. Loosen locknut (D), and turn the push rod (E) in or out to get the specified stroke (F) and height (G) at the clutch pedal. Clutch Pedal Stroke: 141 - 151 mm (5.6 - 5.9 inch) Clutch Pedal Height: 190 mm (7.5 inch)

3. Tighten locknut (D).

4. Turn the clutch switch (B) in until it contacts the clutch pedal (C).

5. Turn the clutch switch (B) in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn.

6. Tighten locknut (A).

7. Loosen locknut (H) and the clutch interlock switch (I).

8. Press the clutch pedal to the floor.

9. Release the clutch pedal 15 - 20 mm (0.59 - 0.79 inch) from the fully pressed position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch (I) so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.

10. Tighten locknut (H).

 

[9450erick]

i dont get the lettering part ie: locknut A
do you hve a picture describing the letters

 

[finch13]

 

[9450erick]

1. Loosen locknut (A), and back off the clutch switch (B)(or adjusting bolt) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C).

2. Loosen locknut (D), and turn the push rod (E) in or out to get the specified stroke (F) and height (G) at the clutch pedal. Clutch Pedal Stroke: 141 - 151 mm (5.6 - 5.9 inch) Clutch Pedal Height: 190 mm (7.5 inch)

3. Tighten locknut (D).

4. Turn the clutch switch (B) in until it contacts the clutch pedal (C).

5. Turn the clutch switch (B) in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn.

6. Tighten locknut (A).

7. Loosen locknut (H) and the clutch interlock switch (I).

8. Press the clutch pedal to the floor.

9. Release the clutch pedal 15 - 20 mm (0.59 - 0.79 inch) from the fully pressed position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch (I) so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.

10. Tighten locknut (H).

7.5 inches from the ground right
nd stroke is from all the way out to all the way in right.
can you explain why being to close to the flywheel is a clutch killer
i no if its not engaged all the way its slipping all the time but dont have any idea about this one
thanx a lot man. last clutch job cost me about a grand. so im not trying to spend that money again anytime soon

 

[finch13]

Because the clutch slips when it's not fully engaged or disengaged. If you have the pedal all the way down, it won't fully disengage and it will slip, that's why your having troubles getting into gear. The blocker ring on the synchro can't slow the speed gear down enough to slide the locker ring over the dog teeth. When the pedal is up, the clutch pressure plate won't have full clmaping force on the clutch disc and it will slip under power. Both scenarios are bad.

Look at the picture. F is where you measure stroke and G for clutch height.