The data for the fuse is a common (non-fault) condition causing that code to light the MIL. If that's the only condition causing it, then replacing the fuse should clear the fault condition, and the MIL will go out (Apparently, after 3 trips running the engine long enough to run diagnostics.)
Of course, if there is another reason for the fault, like actual low voltage, a broken connector or other, then whatever that problem is could cause other issues.
I would suggest that you re-check TPS callibration. There ought to be service specifications for the TPS. make sure that it properly records closed throttle, and has appropriate values for idle to WOT.
Probably not the case, but check that your new wires are firmly connected at both cap and plug. A loose wire will do all kinds of weird things to the spark. Triple check firing order. While you're at it, check ignition timing, too.
Check voltage at the ECU. If I recall, the ECU should be in the center console. Check actual voltage at the ECU power pins both with the ignition off and with it on.
Could be worthwhile to check that you're getting appropriate fuel to the cylinders as well. If you pull those plugs how to they look? There shouldn't be MUCH change after only a short while running, but you should be able to tell if you're getting ignition at all, if it's really rich, or lean. Have you put a gauge on to check fuel pressure?
So far, with parts replaced, it sounds like your mechanic (or you) is taking the shotgun approach to troubleshooting, and just replacing stuff that "might be it." I'd suggest that it's a better idea to test things and figure out what "it" really is.