Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, and Tires' started by selttijcmanit, Apr 25, 2018.
I'm no fan of wiring myself but jesus...your wiring makes mine look like a Van Gogh painting.
Haha no one sees it one it’s in the car anyways so I’m never worried about looks lol. I can wire literally anything on the car and since pretty much everything is out of sight anyways I never try to make it look factory. Otherwise everything would be in looms covered in electrical tape.
I even do this in my 20yr old truck. Really cleans things up and keeps dirt and debris from cutting the wires. Attention to detail is key when doing wiring.
Dear lord please tell me you used some type of mechanical connector like a crimped butt connector or something. Please don't tell me you just twisted the wires and taped them up. Lol.
Properly crimped insulated butt splices are reliable as anything. And don't need any tape.
Nope, just tape lol. I haven’t had any issues with loose wires or resistance issues so far. Only issues I’ve had are from the pins in the harness. Really need to make another one.
no issues? wasn't the car...not running and getting towed a few weeks ago?
let's not pretend that wiring isn't a complete hack job.
here is a harness i made to pull signal from the factory 8th gen radio, including a remote turn on for the bit ten. kind of salty i couldn't find my purple/purple black wire for correct color coding on the RCAs. also didn't feel like buying a pin removal tool which could have made it cleaner on the radio side.
it's not perfect, but it's also not an engine harness.
The issue was the slave cylinder and then the master cylinder, wiring had nothing to do with it. Maybe before bashing my wiring you actually take the time to read what I post instead of looking at pictures and making assumptions.
separate issues or not, it's still done incorrectly and shoddily. carelessness in the short term brings issues in the long term.
Again, wiring had nothing to do with what happened so I don’t understand the argument here or why you had to say something in the first place. I also don’t understand how using tape which is designed for wires and splicing them is any less effective than shrink tubing. Why solder them and shrink tube them if electrical tape and splicing is just effective. When I said my wiring was giving me issues it was more an issue of where I put them as I was under a time constraint.
I like how you call out my wiring and say it was the root cause of a mechanical problem, realize you were wrong and backtrack and then just throw out a blanket statement like oh well your wiring is bad anyways because stone cold said so. Real mature lol. Seems like you’re trying to find reasons to throw your weight around. I’ve done two swaps on my own car and have made three engine harness and guess what? I’ve driven around with both engines without electrical issues and both are documented in my members ride thread.
How many swaps have you done and made engine harnesses for?
Electrical tape is NOT made for splicing wires. It is made to INSULATE proper connections or depredations in the original wire insulation.
I have removed halfass wiring jobs that were just twisted and taped months later and the heat from under the dash melted all the adhesive away and the tape literally fell off the connections.
Do as you wish but a 5 dollar box of butt splices and a 10 dollar crimp tool goes a long way in doing things right.
Now if you soldered the connections and taped them I would be ok with that. But only with 3M super 33+ tape that can withstand high temperatures.
Even store brand lowes and HD have rubber insulating tape that bonds to itself and will never come apart for 3-4 dollars a roll. I have used it to patch a pin hole leak in my radiator hose and made it home.
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