I ran into a problem when I was using the converted (auto to manual) p13 ecu. It ran the car, threw cels appropriately if something was wrong, but then when I go to hit vtec, I couldn't because the ecu had a rev limiter at 5000, right when I want to enjoy some vtec action. So I am now going with a p28 ecu for a manual transmission and it now hits vtec and revs as high as it should. I installed the walbro 255 lph fp and the car is fast! I haven't tuned it in yet, but am currently welding another o2 bung for my apsx wideband and will put the vafc2 on along with the prosport jdm coolant temp gauge. I have an aluminum egr delete plate on the way and will install a plug in place of the knock sensor location. I also have a couple of butterfly delete plates that I plan to stack up in between the upper and lower IM.
I have also designed a bunch of vtec lights of various design and application. They are 3d printed. Some fit into a gauge pod, some have 2 lights and a relay to signify vtec on and off and I have some simple ones that include one light that lights up when vtec turns on. Other designs are intended to sit in the little cubby area under the stereo on a 6th gen. They are very customizable according to the color of light and also the color of cover lens, which enables each one to light up uniquely according to the intended look. They are made of pla and are clear coated.
This one has standard single lenses and lights up green on the left when vtec is off and red on the right when vtec is on. This one is very bright!
Various other sizes and designs. All of these incorporate a 2 bulb green off/red on light colors. The one on the left is designed for a gauge pod and the ones on the right are designed to go in the cubby under the stereo.
2 bulb red/green gauge pod design with remote relay.
This is a design that incorporates a lens and a custom lens plate. It lights up on the left when vtec is off and red on the right when vtec is on.