Fowled #4 Cylinder and Burning Oil.

[BS_GAC_Man]

My first post on this Forum and I hoping for some help.

I bit off a big one helping my son with his 2002 LE 2.3 liter with a 4 speed Automatic. He has been burning oil, about a ½ per tank of gas. The number 4 plug was fouling. Compression check seemed the same for all cylinders. So we pulled the head after a borescope showed a black #4 piston head compared to others. Took the head to a machine shop and had it checked out. All seals and guides seemed to be OK, no cracks and the head is flat. So, now I’m looking at pulling the pistons even though the cylinder walls look normal. Oh, the car has 180K miles and the timing belt has never broken. I guess I’m looking for anyone’s thoughts on were we could be losing the oil. The fouling cylinder must be part of the problem. Can the oil pan be removed without dropping the engine to do a piston and ring swap?

 

[LowerMyCG5]

to remove the pan you have to drop the exhuast by taking the nuts off the bracket that holds in up, then take the down pipe off. remove the flywheel protection plate which will give you acess to the remaining oil pan bolts

 

[BS_GAC_Man]

to remove the pan you have to drop the exhuast by taking the nuts off the bracket that holds in up, then take the down pipe off. remove the flywheel protection plate which will give you acess to the remaining oil pan bolts

On an automatic?

 

[LowerMyCG5]

On an automatic?

didnt see that you were auto oops. it should still be the same

 

[6thgennoobie]

My first post on this Forum and I hoping for some help.

I bit off a big one helping my son with his 2002 LE 2.3 liter with a 4 speed Automatic. He has been burning oil, about a ½ per tank of gas. The number 4 plug was fouling. Compression check seemed the same for all cylinders. So we pulled the head after a borescope showed a black #4 piston head compared to others. Took the head to a machine shop and had it checked out. All seals and guides seemed to be OK, no cracks and the head is flat. So, now I’m looking at pulling the pistons even though the cylinder walls look normal. Oh, the car has 180K miles and the timing belt has never broken. I guess I’m looking for anyone’s thoughts on were we could be losing the oil. The fouling cylinder must be part of the problem. Can the oil pan be removed without dropping the engine to do a piston and ring swap?

I was having the exact same problem with my lx 171k miles motor is out as we speak have you leak down tested also.? I would probably guess rings or possibly a scor in the wall. I personally said f it and ordered a motor from hmo

 

[accord786]

With f series motor this is usual alot of f series burn oil in higher rpm usually vtec...i tested this my self and the results i got were reasonable..
For instance i drove my car for a week with out hiting vtec and changed gears around 3.5 rpm ibdidnt burn a single drop of oil...as soon as i started driving ruff and hit vtec it ate a quart in two days