Frankensteins Official Thread

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by capsidx, May 14, 2017.

  1. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Well, wish me luck. Its going in this weekend. I have the ECU on the way so I have everything I need. Lets hope everything goes smoothly. I wont need to rewire ANYTHING as the engine came with the complete harness attached to all the sensors. So its literally just drop in and go. No more crazy capsidx style wiring. Fusebox will remain in the cabin where I want it. Other than that the old engine is out but I will have to take out the transmission. I did notice the clutch on the H23a1 was pretty much gone so I have a backup from the F23.

    So on good notes were all set. Just need to attach the trans to the motor, drop it in, plug in the new ECU and call it a day. The only thing i'm worried about is the internals. There are no leaks and I havent gotten to try to turn it over by hand which I should have done at the depot. It should be good though. Im not touching the timing belt, water pump, nothing. Im just changing out the plugs. Everything else should be easy. so here's hoping for the best in another one of capsidx's swaps that no one does. F20b is a rare swap it seems and the h23a1 swap is almost non existent lol. :Jedi:
     
  2. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Well, F20b is in. wiring is nearly complete but I cant seem to get the exhaust. I can use my existing downpipe but the header is too short, so when I try to bolt them up the downpipe rests on the bottom of the oil pan the there is a huge gap between the flanges so it wont work anyway. I really dont want to get my exhaust cut and rewelded. At least not now. Im hoping that getting a longer header, (which aftermarket ones usually are) will fix the problem. I cant seem to find any though. Im open to suggestions lol.
     
  3. Rusty Accord

    Rusty Accord Well-Known Member

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    At this point in time, I'd go ahead and cut the down pipe and lengthen it. Remember, you are running out of time. It's basically single cut, then measure how big the gap is, then buying a short piece of pipe to fill the gap. Then (if you don't have a welder) take your 3 pieces to a muffler shop and have them welded together. If you do have a welder (or access to 1) weld up the pieces yourself.

    Once you're back in Florida, you can take your time finding a long tube header set up.
     
  4. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking of doing that but my exhaust is welded from the flange at the cat so removing the downpipe is impossible. I would need to take the entire exhaust with me to the shop. Also the real problem is the header is too short because when i try to mount up the downpipe it angles upward to meet the header and the only solution I see is for me to get a longer header. I was thinking of buying some ****e ebay header and using that for now until I can get a better one. The quality might suck but in my eyes a header is a header when youre in a jam. I can pay for a decent header down the road but you are right. I am almost out of time as my brother is moving and the bank is taking the house. All I need is for the header for be longer than the OEM one and I should be fine.

    Update: NSWdoc sent some headers so hopefully this completes the build! As far as I can tell it is the only obstacle other than the cut dizzy plug I need to hardwire. Apparently the JDM F20b doesnt utilize a crank sensor at the oil pump so thats a plus. Although the harness was included so it wouldnt have been an issue really.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
  5. Rusty Accord

    Rusty Accord Well-Known Member

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    What about making a short intermediate pipe, to join the header to the existing pipe?

    Your crank sensor is probably part of the distributor wiring (like some of the 5th gen Accords used).
     
  6. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    I wont know about the crank sensor until I do the wiring but I remember reading the F20b doesnt use one. Although I know the obd1 h23a1 has it built into the dizzy which is nice because you dont have to worry about it when you do a timing job. I could get a pipe but what about the flange? The header is a little funny because the pipes are actually like an inch ahead of the flange if that makes sense. Also I can get a pipe there but again i'd have to take the whole exhaust with me because the cat and downpipe flange is welded together lol. Im hoping the new cheapo header is longer than the original.
     
  7. Rusty Accord

    Rusty Accord Well-Known Member

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    Well, I guess when you finally run out of time, you'll be taking it to a muffler shop and having them do it up.
     
  8. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Yea thats the game plan. I need to get a different downpipe too but thats later.

    Update: Coming to the end of it. Once the header gets here I'll be diagnosing the no start condition swaps usually have lol. Well my swaps anyway.


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    Last edited: Jan 23, 2018
  9. NSWDoc

    NSWDoc Well-Known Member

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    24 Jan 18...header should be there...don't blow him up.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 23, 2018
  10. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Update: The worst has happened and the fuel pump and main relay dont come on with ignition. Im thinking the FLR pin was loose so im redoing the jumper harness again. I dont know what components come on with the main relay so I need to take a look at all this and hope it primes with the harness. Otherwise i'll be stuck again with a dead car and taking up valuable time figuring out why I cant get the main relay to power on. ECU fuse is good and AGS/stop fuse is also good.
     

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