Frankensteins Official Thread

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by capsidx, May 14, 2017.

  1. RedRyder

    RedRyder Save the manuals

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    Yeah wiring is one thing that just doesn't come easy to me, even hooking up my CL-S seats and power folding mirrors was a chore haha. Anyway, good work here, keep it up.
     
  2. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    I can’t explain how I got good at wiring lol. It’s pretty easy. Every wire starts somewhere and ends somewhere. I just like to put myself in the middle and decide how I want the wire to get from a to b. Just have to remember I’m doing that for 75 or so different wires and some absolutely cannot be crossed lol. I remember when I got the power seats in my sedan.
    I searched the junkyard for a seat that was just right because I knew I probably wasn’t going to be able to adjust it because it was a power seat. Well I figured out all it really needed was power to the motor and to the switches. Easy enough lol. Now I have power seats which are way better than the cloth seats.
    Do you like the cl-s seats? I sat in a cl and didn’t like the way they looked or felt. They felt tiny. I ended up settling for coupe front seats and rear seats from a tl sedan.


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  3. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Well hooked up the fuse box and Ecu today. When checking the codes I received code 11 and 20. Code 11 is the one that worries me because that’s the code for an Ecu fault. I bought an Ecu from eBay but can’t say for sure if it’s good. The seller assured me it was tested before hand so im wondering if it has to do with my jumper rewire


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  4. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Update: Managed to get quite a few harnesses taped and connected. The major ones anyway. I have a few small ones to connect but most of my time was spent trouble shooting the vss. Hopefully it’s not a bad Ecu. All the voltages seem to be correct but I’ll have to triple check to make sure. It may be hard to tell but a lot of the wires are gone and the rest will be hidden around the heater core but there are virtually no visible wires in the engine bay minus the distributor and the point where they’re all run out of the firewall but you’d have to know they were there to find them.

    I decided to do a crude wire tuck because doing one that would be in a magazine is pointless for me. I plan on keeping power steering, and AC. Especially since I’m moving to Florida in January. Anyways I’ll post updates as they happen, as usual. [​IMG][​IMG]


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  5. RedRyder

    RedRyder Save the manuals

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    Awesome you are doing a wire tuck, my bay would look so much better with one.

    You must just have a knack for it. Like I can't even figure out a moderately complex wiring diagram, partially because I don't know what some of the symbols mean. I also don't know what needs a relay and when, and how many amps certain fuses need, blah blah. It's just a different language to me for some reason, I would need to take an electrical engineering class or something haha.

    I love the CL-S seats, dig the perforated leather, headrest design, and bolsters. And heat of course. I'm also not a big guy at 5'11" 155 lbs, they fit me like a glove. I still have my coupe seats, need to sell those, no point in holding onto them.
     
  6. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Yea wiring was something that was always something I was afraid of and I guess since it’s my car there was more to lose if I got it wrong. But it’s fairly simple once you get a handle on it. I ran into a problem today and I was glad I did the tuck because diagnosing the problem was so simple. My battery light was flashing, so that’s the alternator. Most of us know what.

    So instead of hunting for a break in the wire amongst all the other wires I took the alternator harness I made and followed it and found my break. It should be like this from factory lol. You just have to really want to learn it to do it lol.

    You could pick up a manual and see how simple it is if you follow the diagrams. They are a little limited though. Like they don’t cover dashboard wiring and things like that.

    As far as the cl seats go I wasn’t crazy about the design. The back seats I loved because they are like a couch but the front seats were weird to me. I would love heated seats but Florida says that’s not a good idea. Now cooled seats it’s definitely something to look into lol.

    Also you have the v6 so you would definitely benefit from a tuck seeing as how any amount of clutter deleted helps. The v6 engine bay is way too cramped due to the size of the engine. That’s why I decided to do another 4 cylinder swap as opposed to the v6.

    I actually think when I first joined this site your coupe was the first one I saw. Once I saw it was a manual I was dead set on converting even though I had minimal knowledge of cars at the time lol. So I guess I swapped because of the red coupe . Kudos I guess.


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  7. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Update: intake manifold gasket was leaking coolant so went to the dealer to order a new one. Made two trips to the junkyard for ac compressor bracket bolts and line nuts. Also picked up a 98 prelude power steering pump while I was there.
    I found one of many 99 accords in the yard and made sure it fit and it fit perfectly. Just had to
    Bend the line slightly for the pump belt tensioner bolt. Also installed the ac compressor, condensers and lines.
    I ordered some fuel feed sealing washers and the sealing but from the dealer a day after ordering the same parts from majestic because I’m impatient lol. Picked up the timing tensioner pulley spring and stud nut so I won’t skip every tooth on start up.
    Basically the car will be ready to start as soon as I order my headers. All necessary fluids were put into the motor and transmission.
    Shifter cables were lined up and installed on the bracket so hopefully I won’t misshift again and ruin my life lol. Learned some proper shifting techniques to avoid this problem.
    Can’t believe this swap is finally coming to an end. Frankenstein was down for 2 + months which was the case when I did the tranny swap. Same thing happened.
    I was in the middle of the swap. Everything was coming together and I lost my job lol. This time I sold some stuff because I want my damn car back lol. I’ll keep updating accordingly. Pun intended


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  8. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Alright guys, hell has officially broken loose. I went out yesterday after getting the rest of my fuel rail components and was excited for the initial startup. Went to turn the key and nothing happened. Reconnected the battery because the positive was loose.
    Put the key in, turned to start and the starter just kept clicking. Battery light started flashing. Ok alternator is unplugged! Went out to check, of course it’s plugged in. Sat in the car for a little and decided to trace the harness back for an open short.

    Found the alternator wire had come loose in the harness. Fixed that problem as every harness has is separated and wrapped from my tuck.
    Reset the code and the battery symbol disappeared. Jesus!! So I cycled the key, wiggled the shifter and noticed the battery light was flickering. Found a bad ground. Everything was fine and then the fuel pump wasn’t priming. Can’t win >_>.
    Checked the fuses on the drivers side, no joy.
    Turns out it was an ags fuse in the fuse box. Got excited and noticed the fuel pump primed ! Sweet!!!
    Turned the key and heard cranking. So I spent the day chasing the no spark problem.
    If anyone has ideas that would be great. I’m leaning towards bad ground.




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  9. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Update: finally got the started. Waiting for a the final pieces to come in and then the swap will be done officially. I can honestly say I officially swapped an h23a1 into a cg6 with a lot of wiring and a lot of persistence. Shout out to NSWDoc for hooking me up with parts on an almost weekly basis. More to come once the car is complete.


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  10. NSWDoc

    NSWDoc Well-Known Member

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    You need some headers...
     

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