Fuel pump wiring issue.....

[JeRM82]

So today I was digging into my no start issue in my 99 two door V6 distributor car and ran into an issue with the wiring at the pump. Car has spark at the plugs, and cranks so I started checking power to the pump and fuses. All the fuses read good, so I went to the plug at the pump to see if power was getting there. I read the black and yellow wire (bottom right of picture with meter lead in it..sorta covered by other wires) for power, and nada.....no power. SO....I go upstream wiring wise to the fuse block on the driver's side of the dash. In that fuse block there is a fuel pump fuse that I pulled out and put the meter across the sockets to see if power was going through the good fuse. The socket reads good for power, so to me that means that the main relay is good because power makes to to the fuse. I went back to the plug for the pump and looked at the other wires. I checked the two ground wires that were black with grey spots....those were good. I checked the two OTHER multiple color wires at the pump plug aaaand bam......power at both.....LOL.....at this point I was like....WTF.....Chilton Manual.....used you a million times bud....don't let me down here! Ha ha!
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I am hoping the Chilton manual labeled the wire color wrong......it says that the power wire is supposed to be BLACK/YELLOW. The two wires with power that I found are in the pic I posted with the meter lead. The two wires with power are YELLOW/BLUE, AND RED/GREEN-ish. Are these two wires SUPPOSED to be power to the pump? All the grounds in the plug are good......those two wires do have power at the pump.......the pump make ZERO noise when you turn the key.....no pump prime.....no action from the pump when you crank it either....

to me....

That means replace the pump......what do you guys thinnk?

 

[JeRM82]

Kind of realized I just laid a bunch of info down without specific questions.....LOL.....

What color wires are SUPPOSED to have power at the plug for the fuel pump?

What wire is the "fuel pump" fuse SUPPOSED to go to if it has power?
(Driver's side under dash fuse block.....fuse all the way at the bottom)

Can I take the fuel rail's return line....pull it from what looks like the filter on the firewall.....stick it in a cup.....then crank the car to see if fuel goes into the pump to check the pump?

I am practically def from where I work....LOL....but I seriously don't hear/feel anything when I have my hand on the top of the fuel pump hat (circle top part of pump that screws into the fuel tank itself) while key is turned to on/acc.....AND when turned all the way for cranking......nothing.....Does that mean the pump is bad or it's not getting power?

Thanks for ANY help in advance guys......I seriously never post up on the site....but I read a lot of the good info you guys have already posted.....good stuff......thanks for helping me keep my Accord on the road......

 

[FNCONE]

I went thru my diagrams and there is a couple things you can check before we can continue trouble shooting. Just cause fuse 1 is good it doesn't mean the relay is OK. There are 3 fuses that go to the relay, and they work together with grounds to close the circuits. We will start with simple test first.
once something doesn't work or go as planned let me know....
1. check under hood fuse 46 15A
2. check drivers fuse 1 15A
3. check drivers fuse 13 7.5A
4. on the main relay pin 7 which is white/green check for voltage (at all times even off)
5. main relay pin 5 which is cable red/white check for voltage on "ON"
6. main relay pin 2 which is cable blue/orange voltage while starting
7. main relay pin 3 which is black check continuity to ground
8. main relay pin 6. which is yellow/black check continuity to PCM to B1 and B9
9. while at PCM check continuity from B2 Black to ground
10. main relay pin 1 which is green/yellow , check voltage while cranking
11. main relay pin 4 which is black/yellow check for voltage while cranking

IF ALL that adds up and your immobilizer light is not flashing, your relay SHOULD BE fine...(by the information you provided the problem should be found somewhere here because the pump has no voltage to the black/yellow wire when you tested it...once the test get done we will know) if it doesn't check out check the solder points or just replace it.

To the fuel pump, you said your grounds where fine so

1. add battery voltage to pin 5 black/yellow and it should pump, prime, make noise, something!!
if it does your good. If not the pump could be shot


IF all these text pass, I will give the next diagram for the rest of the wires to the pump. GOOD luck!!!

 

[JeRM82]

THANKS MAN! Going back out to the car in a few to check on the wiring.....man.....I kept thinking that if there was actual power at the fuel pump fuse that everything wired to activate it was good.....like.....the main relay would have to work in order for there to be power at that fuse.....

Holly crap.....just checked that black and yellow wire's continuity from the fuel pump plug to the fuel pump fuse....because you said that the pin could be seperated from the wire...BUT still in the plug......dude....no bueno.....ha ha.....that black and yellow wire is supposed to go straight to that fuse number 1 on the driver's side fuse block......RIGHT? Man.....maybe I should pull that pin out and check for power....the plug's wires ARE twisted to hell where it looked like it was sorta pulling on the wiring harness and the most tension was....man...is it common for crap rolling around in your trunk to sorta "yank" on the fuel pump harness and pull the wiring kind of outa the plug? Makes totally possible when I am looking at the wiring now.....

I am double checking everything else right now.....THANKS for the tips!

 

[FNCONE]

You're welcome....
No it doesn't go straight to the Drivers*** box fuse 1, it goes into the main relay pin 4 black/yellow

if you want fuse 1, its at the drivers fuse box plug "o" which is behind the kick panel (the side that doesn't have the fuses) pin 1 which is cable red/ white that would be "fuse 1" power. Just look at he diagram O1 is the direct wire associated with fuse 1.... but no need to worry about that yet, just try the test i wrote down AND please remember continuity test are with NO power disconnect the battery.

 

[JeRM82]

You're welcome....
No it doesn't go straight to the passenger box it goes into the main relay pin 4 black/yellow

if you want fuse 1, its at the drivers fuse box plug "o" which is behind the kick panel (the side that doesn't have the fuses) pin 1 which is cable red/ white that would be "fuse 1" power. Just look at he diagram O1 is the direct wire associated with fuse 1.... but no need to worry about that yet, just try the test i wrote down AND please remember continuity test are with NO power disconnect the battery.

Thanks for the help..I would have never figured that out.....cause the schematic to me says that it runs through that fuse box on the driver's side block before it hits the main relay.....that is why I was checking for power at that fuse....MUST mean one of the plugs that goes into the fuse block and not the actual fuel pump fuse itself like you are saying.......that would make sense on no continuity between pump plug and fuel pump fuse plug......



I was STOKED when I found power there, and thought the relay was good.......ha ha ha....not as easy as I thought...

I apreceate the help man......learning a LOT here......if you were closer I would buy you a case of beer....two for replying so quick.....ha ha ha!

 

[JeRM82]

Jesus......I am retarded.....it just clicked in my head what you were saying about the schematic.....the dotted line that I kept thinking WAS that fuse for fuel pump was the dotted line block at the top of the page.......WOW.....how did I miss that!?!?!?
Thanks man! Ha ha!

 

[FNCONE]

No problem. ....I meant the Drivers not passengers. It does go to the fuse first then relay but from the power source (battery) but since you said You were working on the wire at the pump (black/yellow) that goes to the main relay. Remember that wire only gets power while starting..... You won't get power unless you're trying to start it. (Crank it) or simply on "ON" positIon it should prime (pump) good luck.

 

[FNCONE]

You are reading it correct it DOES go thru the drivers fuse box then relay on the way back BUT NOT THRU THE FUSE. Since we where just doing continuity test I told you it ends up in the main relay (which it does) I think its to much BS to tell you its going to Pass the drivers fuse box enter at A4 leave the fuse box at O7 and end up at the main relay, lol....if you have continuity from the fuel pump Black/yellow to the main relay black/yellow then you know the wires at drivers fuse box A4 and O7 are fine. take your time and read the schematic.
Dotted lines are usually components(fuse boxes, computers blah blah blah), dots are splices or junctions.

 

[JeRM82]

Forgot to update the thread.....the main relay was done.....thanks for all of the help man! I replaced the main relay after walking through the steps you gave me and verifying power/continuity. This site is AWESOME!
FNCONE......you are the **** man! Thanks for the help! Gonna save me $100 a WEEK to drive the Accord instead of my truck!