H22A swap

[Carriecarmell]

Doing a H22A swap into my 1999 Accord. H22 is bolted in, I just have a few wiring questions.
I’m using the f23 harness- converting it to OBD1.

What wires I have to rewire to make the distributor work?


What oxygen sensor to use?

What to do with idle air valve?

I think I have everything else figured out, but any advise you have would be nice!
Thanks!

 

[capsidx]

Doing a H22A swap into my 1999 Accord. H22 is bolted in, I just have a few wiring questions.

I’m using the f23 harness- converting it to OBD1.



What wires I have to rewire to make the distributor work?





What oxygen sensor to use?



What to do with idle air valve?



I think I have everything else figured out, but any advise you have would be nice!

Thanks!

If everything plugs in to their respective plugs you have two choices. Use a jumper harness and step it down to a p28 with an h22 basemap or find a rare obd1 h22 ecu.

Yes you have to wire up the dizzy but if your plug was intact you’ll need to wire up everything on the pinout side. You’ll need the pinouts for sure if you want to wire it correctly. So you should have an external coil as opposed to my f20b which is internal. You need a 12 volt for the external as well as the camshaft position sensor, Tdc sensor and cylp which both have positives and negatives.

You can use any Honda oem 4 wire o2 sensor. You’ll need pinouts for that too but one wire is ground. One is heater signal. One is 12 volt and one is sensor signal.

Iacv will have to deleted or you’ll have to swap the manifold for an obd1 style like on the h23a1. AFAIK you can’t wire up a three wire iacv to a 2 wire obd1 ecu. Deleting it in the tune fixes any issues you may have which h22 and f20b are notorious for. The iacv is usually he culprit. Sometimes it’s the FITV but generally it’s the iacv.
All it does is give you slightly better cold idle. At least from my experience. You can run without it with no issues and save yourself a ton of money.

 

[Carriecarmell]

Thank you!