ILoveMyCG
Well-Known Member
check your fuse box...it might be blown! (I think its a 20 fuse)
i need help with my a/c its to hot out people help me
- Thread starter jpn
- Start date
well he has this scale that the tank sits on and as the freon leaves the tank and goes into the car the tank gets lighter and all u have to do is make sure the correct amount leaves the tank and the gauges read good. im not to sure how it works since im not hvac but he says that we had the correct amount of freon in it just the compressor wont turn on
finch13
Well-Known Member
fail
Last edited:
finch13
Well-Known Member
Ah, okay then. That is pretty much how you charge it without a full blown A/C machine. Did he vacuum it first?
I would not doubt the condenser is too clogged with debris or the pressure switch is faulty.
Usually, with a clogged condenser high side pressures will read 350-450 PSI and the low side will read 50-80 PSI. You want the high side under 250 PSI and the low side around 30-40 PSI. The pressures will be different depending on ambient temperature.
Checking the pressure switch is easy. Using a multimeter, the switch should always have continuity (complete circuit, resistance setting on meter, should read very low Ω, OL means it's open). With the car running and the A/C switched on, you can jump the connector to the pressure switch. If the clutch engages, then replace the pressure switch.
I would not doubt the condenser is too clogged with debris or the pressure switch is faulty.
Usually, with a clogged condenser high side pressures will read 350-450 PSI and the low side will read 50-80 PSI. You want the high side under 250 PSI and the low side around 30-40 PSI. The pressures will be different depending on ambient temperature.
Checking the pressure switch is easy. Using a multimeter, the switch should always have continuity (complete circuit, resistance setting on meter, should read very low Ω, OL means it's open). With the car running and the A/C switched on, you can jump the connector to the pressure switch. If the clutch engages, then replace the pressure switch.
finch13
Well-Known Member
Ah, okay then. That is pretty much how you charge it without a full blown A/C machine. Did he vacuum it first?
I would not doubt the condenser is too clogged with debris or the pressure switch is faulty.
Usually, with a clogged condenser high side pressures will read 350-450 PSI and the low side will read 50-80 PSI. You want the high side under 250 PSI and the low side around 30-40 PSI. The pressures will be different depending on ambient temperature.
Checking the pressure switch is easy. Using a multimeter, the switch should always have continuity (complete circuit, resistance setting on meter, should read very low Ω, OL means it's open). With the car running and the A/C switched on, you can jump the connector to the pressure switch. If the clutch engages, then replace the pressure switch.
I would not doubt the condenser is too clogged with debris or the pressure switch is faulty.
Usually, with a clogged condenser high side pressures will read 350-450 PSI and the low side will read 50-80 PSI. You want the high side under 250 PSI and the low side around 30-40 PSI. The pressures will be different depending on ambient temperature.
Checking the pressure switch is easy. Using a multimeter, the switch should always have continuity (complete circuit, resistance setting on meter, should read very low Ω, OL means it's open). With the car running and the A/C switched on, you can jump the connector to the pressure switch. If the clutch engages, then replace the pressure switch.
does anyone have a diagram of the pressure switch i cant find it. i mean when u turn on the ac wit buttons in the car the rpms jump. but we had jumped a connector to make the rpms jump even higher not to sure what connector that it its on a like a little can like thing
finch13
Well-Known Member
It's between the bumper cover and radiator support on the passenger side. It's silver. Look at the hood latch and it's to your left. Pressure switch threads into the top and has a 2 pin connector. The wiring harness drops down from the radiator support and is tied in to the fan harness.
finch13
Well-Known Member
Let me take a look at the wiring diagrams in a bit... I'll get back to you.
finch13
Well-Known Member
Okay, a few more things to check. Make sure the engine is running and the A/C is switched to "on" inside the car.
- Fuses. 7.5A #13 in passenger fuse box, 7.5A #3 in driver fuse box, 20A #58 in engine fuse box. #13 controls power to the HVAC controls, #3 controls power to the compressor relay, #58 controls power to the compressor clutch. If any are blown, you've got a short to ground somewhere in the wiring, which I'll help figure out if need be.
- There's a compressor clutch relay in the engine bay fuse box. Try tapping it with the butt of a screwdriver, see if the clutch engages.
I would place my bets on the relay, the next most likely place would be a broken power wire. Grounds should be okay since you can jump power to the clutch and it works. I'm gonna go ahead and say that the pressure switch and the evaporator temperature sensor are okay, since if either of them were bad the A/C request signal wouldn't get sent from the HVAC controls to the ECU (this is what is raising your idle).
- Fuses. 7.5A #13 in passenger fuse box, 7.5A #3 in driver fuse box, 20A #58 in engine fuse box. #13 controls power to the HVAC controls, #3 controls power to the compressor relay, #58 controls power to the compressor clutch. If any are blown, you've got a short to ground somewhere in the wiring, which I'll help figure out if need be.
- There's a compressor clutch relay in the engine bay fuse box. Try tapping it with the butt of a screwdriver, see if the clutch engages.
I would place my bets on the relay, the next most likely place would be a broken power wire. Grounds should be okay since you can jump power to the clutch and it works. I'm gonna go ahead and say that the pressure switch and the evaporator temperature sensor are okay, since if either of them were bad the A/C request signal wouldn't get sent from the HVAC controls to the ECU (this is what is raising your idle).
