Ignition key cylinder

Discussion in 'URGENT - Help Quick!' started by SupraGuy, Jun 11, 2018.

  1. SupraGuy

    SupraGuy Well-Known Member

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    I can't remove the key from the ignition.

    I believe that it is a problem either with the switching, or the key interlock solenoid itself, looking for possible solutions. Preferably cheap,

    A while back, sometimes it would be difficult to turn the key all the way to the "ACC" position. This was not the steering lock, nor is it a worn key, since I was able to turn the key enough to unlock the steering, which the wrong key would not do. This was only occasional, and would resolve itself with a little jiggling.

    Yesterday, I was unable to turn the key off past the "ACC" position, like if the car were still in gear, though it is firmly in "PARK" (And the dashboard indicator shows it being in PARK.)

    I don't really want to spend a couple hundred dollars on a new ignition cylinder, then a couple hundred more on re-keying the doors and trunk.

    I am okay with disabling the key interlock, though that would allow me to take the keys out while it is still in gear, I don't feel that it is likely at all that I will do that. I'm also used to driving a standard, which generally has no such protection.

    In the meantime, I'm kind of distressed that I can't take the key out of the ignition, and have to lock the doors from the outside of the car with the key.

    If a new ignition cylinder is the only way to do this, I believe that I need to re-program the ECU for new chip keys. The lock cylinder should come with a couple as well.
     
  2. SupraGuy

    SupraGuy Well-Known Member

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    It seems to be the ignition interlock. I think that it's either the key release solenoid, or else the electronics that trigger the solenoid. (Given the overall electrical gremlins that seem to plague this car, I wouldn't be surprised at the latter.)

    Manual says NOT to apply battery voltage tot he solenoid. It seems difficult to find out what kind of voltage it should take. I'm going to operate on the theory that it's 5V, and see if I can feed it 5V to let me take the key out (And then turn the ignition back on.)

    I'm concerned if I have to replace the key cylinder. There seem to be different models. Some specify manual transmission. I wonder if those don't have the interlock solenoid, since it doesn't have to worry about "park" -- in which case, I worry that it may not allow the transmission to shift.

    I've got to say that I'm definitely NOT a fan of the electrical system in this car. It has had more failures than every other car that I've ever owned.
     
  3. SupraGuy

    SupraGuy Well-Known Member

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    Well, I'm gathering that people just don't know. Figures.

    Okay, so this is day 4.

    There doesn't seem to be anything on the 'net for looking at the actual key interlock solenoid. The general information that I've found seems to indicate that the solenoid operates when it is energized to lock the key in place, which should mean that it lets go when power is removed.

    It's not letting go, regardless.

    As a desperation move, I cut the ground wire to the solenoid. Or at least what the FSM seemed to indicate was the ground wire to the solenoid. No change, still can't remove the key. I guess that the solenoid or plunger must be damaged such that it's stuck engaged and can't disengage.

    At this point, I'm just getting more frustrated. I'm almost certain that whatever my solution, it's going to result in permanently disabling that interlock functionality. I'd much rather be able to remove the key with the transmission in gear than be unable to remove the key at all. I suppose that Honda would rather the other way for liability reasons (Hence the recall for this not functioning, I guess.)

    I was trying to look to see what a key cylinder costs at rockauto. I'm not sure that I can determine which is the correct one, but since the cheapest one doesn't have the immobilizer, which I've got, it's certainly not the least expensive one. The idea of having the car re-keyed to match the new cylinder also doesn't appeal to me in the slightest. I've pretty much decided that if the choice is losing the ignition key interlock or re-keying the car, I'll lose the interlock. I'm pretty sure that I'll be this car's last owner in any event, when I'm done with it, it'll be either parted out our headed for a wrecker.
     
  4. SupraGuy

    SupraGuy Well-Known Member

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    Well, it's a solution...

    I disconnected the negative trigger for the key interlock solenoid. It still didn't want to let go of the key, meaning that the solenoid plunger was stuck engaged, which is more or less what I'd figured out. I was going to remove the key cylinder, but there is anti-theft measures in place, the bolt heads holding the key cylinder in place shear off, so you're supposed to drill them out.

    (rant)

    WTF?! Seriously, they're expecting that someone trying to steal the car is going to use a ratchet to unbolt the key cylinder? Not a chance. They're going to use a hammer to remove the key cylinder, or else be willing to drill it out themselves. All this measure does is inconvenience legit owners trying to do maintenance.

    (/rant)

    Anyhow, I tapped the key cylinder with a deadblow mallet until it would let go of the key. Now since the solenoid is disconnected, it doesn't have the interlock function anymore, so I could potentially take the key out while the car is still in gear, but I'm not going to do that. Besides, it's not too different from a manual, where you can take the key out with the car in neutral, and you need to do something to keep the car from potentially rolling.

    I would still prefer to pull the key cylinder and remove the solenoid plunger entirely. I'll probably do that when I have some time to replace the bolts after drilling them out (Or I can find my easy-out kit) but in the meantime, at least I can get past this.
     

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