J32 6 speed MT swap

crazyspade101

Active Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2011
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
PA
Do you have anyone helping you?

Yeah, my girlfriend's father is helping me. I'm working on it at their house, which is extremely nice of them. He used to be a mechanic, he still does some side jobs here and there for friends and family, he's got pretty much every tool to work on a car, and extremely knowledgeable.

We started this on the 6th and worked on it 8 hours, then during the week anywhere from 2.5 to 3.5 hours, another 6 hours this past saturday, and 8 hours sunday, and back to 2.5 -3.5.

It only really needs fluids and wired up. I got the electrical connection ecu/pcm schematic for both cars from a local shop, and should have all the wiring figured out tonight. Then will do the wiring tomorrow, and hopefully get it started saturday.

I'm hoping I can find a local locksmith to cut a key to match my honda key but then program it off of the acura immobilizer
 

swazi5

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
Location
US
Congrats on the find, progress looks awesome!!! Can't wait to see the end result.
 

crazyspade101

Active Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2011
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
PA
So I updated the previous link, and will update my original post after the swap and everything gets worked out. But this is what I came up with for wiring the ecu, still need to figure out what to do about the clutch switch ecu pin 17 on the CL but besides that I think I'm going to start wiring tomorrow.

J32A2 6MT ECU WIRING - 00 Accord EX V6
 

crazyspade101

Active Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2011
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
PA
Today was a good milestone day.

So following the wiring guide I put together I spliced in the acura cl connecter.


Tried to start it using the ignition system, of course it didn't work because of the immobilizer.

I ended up going to Lowe's with the keys for both cars. Got a key cut with the accord pattern and coded with the CL immobilizer. The cut on the key is terrible but it got the ignition to turn. I only did the wires on the dash harness, no reverse lockout, no clutch switch, so it would not send power to the starter.

Took a jumper to the starter to crank over the engine, fired right up:ehcapt:, no leaks anywhere either.

Okay so that's all the good that happened, onto the bad.

Check Engine Light is on, I don't have my scanner but I should by saturday.
SRS light is on, not sure, might be from the steering wheel bag? dunno.
Engine starts fine, idles at 1k, slowly increases idle to about 2 or 3k, I forget which but surges down to 1k and back. Think this is a gasket problem, or vacuum leak, didn't put a new gasket back on the throttle body, headers or cat. Anyone know what size gasket's I should use for the Greddy Evo2 CL exhaust and Comptech headers?

Interesting thing when the shifter is put into reverse the park light comes on.

Almost there. Will post a video of the idling in the morning.


Spacer's I have, one pair is 5/8", pair of 11/16", and a pair of 3/4" starting with the 5/8"


Couple more Pics

 

crazyspade101

Active Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2011
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
PA
So the Greddy Exhaust pipe from the cat to the Y is about an 1" or 2" too long, so I cannot use it. Back to Megan Racing.

The surging idle had something to do with motor mount vacuum. Unplugged the vacuum hose, and connector to the solenoid, started the car, plugged it all back in, no more idle problems.

So the clutch interlock wiring, have it figured out. Connector E on the accord, pin 12, blu/wht wire. Stuck a paper clip in the back side of the pin, used some alligator clips and wired it so that the blu/wht on connector e went to the blu/wht on the switch and the ecu, used one of those paper clamp thingys to hold the black wire to the chassis, and started the car. No problems.

Car runs like a champ. Just have to put the mufflers on, actually wire in the clutch switch and put the interior back together.

The SRS light is on still. I don't know what to do to fix it. It throws no codes on the OBD2 scanner. Also, going to work on getting the IMRC Module, and Cruise Control Module all wired in. Most likely going to have to use the CL cruise control because the ecu won't be outputting a cruise signal anymore.

Using 5/8" Spacers

It was getting dark, will post a better picture later.

The hood closes and just resting on the intake manifold, I might use the 3/4" spacers for better clearance or order some motor mounts and cut them.

My steering wheel also isn't aligned anymore with the tires anymore :'( but that's an easy fix and should be done tomorrow.

 

crazyspade101

Active Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2011
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
PA
No more updates on this?

Sorry, Yeah I've been busy school and work were kicking my ***. This swap is 100% done, and 99% functional (only thing not working is cruise control).

So a quick rundown of everything that went into my accord,
J32A2 48k Miles
J32A2 6 Speed Tranny
CL-S Clutch Pedal
CL-S MT Brake Pedal
CL-S Slave cyl.
CL-S Entire front suspension and subframe, Didn't feel like ****ing with the different mount systems
CT ICEBOX - Front Bolt stripped FML.
CT Strutbar
UR Pulleys
Neuspeed Springs/Eibach Struts
J37 Intake Manifold
P2R TB adapter
P2R Thermal Gaskets
CT Headers
Megan Racing Exhaust - Not obnoxiously loud with the silencers in. Similar tones to the Greedy EVO2 that was on the CL-S, was about 1.5" to long before the axles and I didn't feel like cutting and welding it together.
CL-S Shifter w/ boot

Went with the J37 IM because it does give more clearance, but the MAP sensor or the TB now hits the hood... Originally was having some vibrations under acceleration at 60mph, got rid of spacers went a way a bit. I HAD the CL-S axles on my car, when the vibrations didn't go away I switched the axles the vibrations are completely gone. So I could probably space the frame and get more clearance.

What else can I do? Well I want to get a writeup of this swap in the DIY section. I know the tools, and everything needed for this swap. I most DEFINITELY want to write up the wiring for it, I have where everything goes, but a little more details in.

So I guess what I'm getting at is what would you guys like to see in a post?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

RedRyder

Save the manuals
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Posts
19,517
Reaction score
119
Location
Fawking, OH
Congrats on a finished and functional job. My cruise control is operational so if you need any photos let me know. A wiring guide for this swap would be awesome, that is the only part of the process that is still a gray area to people who don't know wiring mechanics.

Also need 80 posts to sell, sorry.
 

lowhonda

Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2013
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
Location
Newark, NJ
I started this swap in April and I feel lost! Especially when it comes to the wiring. Im keeping my J30 in(may upgrade next year). I like to do things right the first time around. Any help can be appreciated. Im in the 07106 area.
 
Back
Top